Saturday 20th August saw Martin & I heading for the Lake District to
collect some Classic Rock ticks and as many other routes as we can. We
left Ipswich mid afternoon and after an uneventful journey enjoyed
chips in Keswick before putting the tents up at a busy Hollows Farm in
the gathering gloom.

Sunday dawned bright and warm. After a leisurely start and gear
faff, we drive up to Seathwaite and walk up to Gable Crag, our
targets being Napes Needle & Needle Ridge. Unwisely we chose the
shorter but scrambly path and the walk in takes about 3 1/2 hours. At
Styhead we pick up the climbers path that contours around Great
Gable, passing under the impressive looking Kern Knotts and Tophet
Wall before arriving at Napes Needle.

I’m staggered that there’s nobody on the route. After some lunch
and a final check of the instructions for making ourselves secure
on the top and getting down again, Martin tackles the first pitch –
a polished offwidth crack. I join him at the belay, take the gear
and start the very short second pitch. There’s an obvious break
above the belay for gear and this takes a friend and a nut. A
couple of surprisingly easy moves later my feet are in the break
and I can traverse left into a more exposed position. The holds are
all obvious and fairly well used but some more gear would nice. A
couple of moves later I get a nut in just below the top and before
I know I’m on the top of the pinnacle, feeling rather insecure as
it’s far from flat and quite polished.

The view from Napes Needle (click on any picture to see the image in Flickr)

Right, time to see if I can recall the instructions. Drop a loop of
rope under the overhang and clove hitch into the harness. Drop
another two loops down to Martin and tie each one back into the
harness. Still not feeling that secure but it will have to do.
Martin comes up and we exchange the gear so that he can place more
pieces to protect my descent. Martin down-climbs and re-attaches
himself to the belay at the top of the first pitch before I too
down-climb and remove the gear from the top pitch.

We then change the gear over again and I down climb the first
pitch, placing more gear as I go before Martin comes down. What a
performance! It must have taken at least twice as long to get down
from the top as it took to get up there. The guidebook gives an
overall grade of HS; the ascent almost certainly isn’t that but the
descent probably is.

Needle Ridge starts right behind the needle and as we’re feeling
confident in our abilities, we decide to take coils and move
together. This proved to be a good move and we cover the ground
very quickly, progress only being limited by the two teams ahead of
us. By the time we get to the top, the weather is beginning to
change with the wind picking up and cloud lowering. We scramble
down and then lurch down some scree before picking the walker’s
path back to Styhead. We return along the better path to the valley
but it’s already started to rain and we’re quite wet by the time we
get back to the car at around 7.30. Good day out though, with two
routes ticked.

Back at the campsite a group of chavs are in residence in poorly
pitched tents and seem intent on making as much noise and being as
oiksome as possible.

We’re somewhat fatigued the following day; we decide an easier
valley day is in order. We start off by walking up to Black Crag
for the tick of Troutdale Pinnacle. The first three pitches are
despatched in short order. The fourth pitch starts with a downward
traverse across some slabs, which required some thought, and then a
steep step up onto the pinnacle. Easier ground follows to gain the
top of the pinnacle on which I sit, semi-astride, with plenty of
air on both sides. An airy step off the pinnacle follows and then a
groove with an awkward move near the top to finish. Another tick
ticked.

We then walk round to Shepherds Crag and Martin points me at Brown
Slabs Crack ‘So we can nail that mountain VS thing’. The main
feature of the route is a polished corner that can be either jammed
or laybacked. I go for the jamming option and although it’s quite
strenuous there’s enough gear to keep it safe. The corner is soon
ascended, as is the easier ground to the top. A visit to Shepherd’s
Crag wouldn’t be complete without going to the café, so that’s our
next port of call. Being late in the day, they’re keen to sell that
day’s cake so we get extra large portions. Result! Better still; we
get to bask outside in the warm sunshine.

Back on the campsite, we’re chilling out and nibbling when Martin’s
friends Dave and Chris appear. ‘Oh’ says Martin, ‘I wasn’t
expecting them until tomorrow!’ Tents are soon pitched, beers
exchanged, tea drunk and food prepared and eaten on a warm evening
only spoilt by uninvited midges and the chavs.

Tuesday starts grey and gloomy. Undeterred, we drive up to Honister
Hause; Martin, Dave & I walk into Gillercombe for the tick of
Gillercombe Buttress whilst Chris walks back to the campsite. On
the approach, the cloud base is dropping but we apply
mountaineering judgement and decide to go for the route anyway but
to climb with rucksacks so we can walk straight out from the top.
With the weather looking threatening, we elect to climb in
waterproofs. I also choose to wear waterproof trousers and was I
glad I did!

Martin takes the first pitch and it proves to be jolly exciting for
the grade, with an awkward struggle into and out of a square notch.
I led the second pitch but don’t recall much about it. I do,
however, recall leaving the belay and moving round into the full
force of the wind and rain now battering the buttress. Dave led the
fourth pitch in increasingly foul conditions and I led the fifth,
which wasn’t too difficult despite the conditions. And so it fell
to Martin to take the 6th and penultimate pitch. We thought the
difficulties were over and this was now a romp to the top but there
was a sting in the tail. We should perhaps have realised this
sooner, this being a Classic Rock route.

The technically difficult moves were very thin and reachy above a
big drop and would be interesting on a still, warm day. But in the
wind and streaming with water they were much more difficult. The
moves above were considerably easier but no less demanding due to
the runout. So demanding that Martin had to take a five minute
break mid pitch to gather thoughts and recover sufficient mental
energy to finish the pitch. Meantime, Dave and I were getting
progressively colder & wetter on the belay. Dave feels the cold
anyway and with soaking poly cotton trousers was suffering. I lead
the 7th and final pitch; by the time we’re all at the top it’s
about 5pm and time for some lunch. After a nibble we navigate
across the tops through cloud and eventually get back to Honister
Hause at about 6.30. With the food and movement, Martin & I have
warmed up a bit. Dave however was moving very slowly, feeling sick
and had gone very quiet.

The wind and rain kept up all night; if anything they got worse.
The weather forecast was for torrential rain and gale force winds
and we certainly got all of that. Despite the exertions of the
previous days I slept only fitfully but when I finally surfaced,
just as the rain was abating, there was tent carnage at Hollows
Farm. Our tents were undamaged but there was evidence of several
groups packing up and leaving during the night, with their trashed
tents and paraphernalia dumped by the bin. The chavs had left
sometime during the night, their weak erections evidently not man
enough to resist all the weather could throw at them.
Stereotypically, they left a trail of rubbish behind them for
others to clean up.

Flooded River Derwent

A little later we found that a swollen River Derwent had cut us off
from Keswick. Fortunately, it wasn’t long before the rain stopped
completely, the sun came out and it turned into a good drying out
day. Our climbing gear and wet clothing from the previous day was
soon spread around the campsite and we salvaged some guy lines and
a tent pole from the bins to make a drying line.

Norman arrives mid-morning and with the flooding has to walk the
last mile or so to the campsite. Being made of stern stuff, he and
Dave team up for a day at Shepherds Crag. Meanwhile, Martin and I
loaf around the campsite until lunchtime then head into Keswick for
gear fondling and food shopping.

Drying out at Hollows Farm

Unsure of the weather for the coming days, a call was made to the
ever-reliable Culverhouse weather centre. Part of the plan for the
week is to walk over into Ennerdale and wild camp for a couple of
routes on Pillar but this is very much weather dependent. The
forecast isn’t too good so we cook up an alternative plan – an
early start the next day to do Tophet Wall on Great Gable and if
time permits walk into Ennerdale for a recce of Pillar and maybe a
route as well.

Wednesday evening saw the late return of Norman & Dave from
Shepherds Crag, and the arrival of Adrian and Kearton, the Chandler family
and Nick Willis.

It was about 8.30 the following morning that we parked up at
Seathwaite and started the walk up to Great Gable. This time we
chose the easier valley path and make good progress. With a bit of
prior knowledge it takes us around 3 hours to walk up to Tophet
Wall. As we gear up, a cold wind is blowing up the gully and we’re
out of the sun but at least it’s dry. I launch up the first pitch,
which is steep and thin, but there is enough protection that was
particularly appreciated through a technical section. Martin comes
up to the somewhat uncomfortable hanging belay at the end of the
pitch where we swap over and he leads through.

The second pitch starts in much the same way as the first, but
without the welcome gear! Fortunately there is gear a bit higher up
and we both make fairly light work of the pitch. From the guidebook
it looks as though the third pitch is the crux; the wording in the
guidebook is “Semi hand traverse right in a sensational position”.
It certainly is a good position but the holds and protection are
both generous. I’m left wondering what the fuss was all about! We
swap over again and Martin leads through for the fourth and final
pitch. It starts easily enough, climbing up to a pinnacle before
stepping round an arête and then easier ground to the top. What
neither of us had banked on was the exposure – huge! – from
stepping round the arête. At the top, both of us were giggling like
a couple of schoolgirls at the position.

By the time we’ve scrambled down and lunched it’s mid afternoon;
too late for another route but just right for a recce into
Ennerdale. We regain the climbers’ path and contour round Great
Gable in good time. We then head over Kirk Fell, steep but steady,
before dropping down to Black Sail Pass. Big black clouds have been
rolling in and as the descent steepens, rain starts to fall. As it
looks like it’s fairly well set in, we stop to don waterproofs.
Whilst faffing around we’re approached by a father and son team who
have been sitting nearby. ‘The boy doesn’t want to tackle the steep
descent; can we help them? Martin uses a couple of slings to make
sit and chest harnesses into which we tie a rope. With his father
in front and me providing a waist belay as required from behind,
his confidence soon returns and whilst maybe not skipping down like
a mountain goat the descent that had previously appeared very
daunting now posed little problem. We leave them at Black Sail Pass
but it’s taken us a couple of hours to get here so although our
destination is in sight we take the mountaineering decision to turn
round.

Our exit from Ennerdale is obvious – Windy Gap between Green Gable
and Great Gable. Rather than go back over Kirk Fell, we pick up a
path that contours round Kirk Fell. The path to Windy Gap is now
obvious but that doesn’t mean it’s easy! Well, the first part is
easy but, joy of joys, we’re soon onto steep and loose ground all
the way to the top. By and large it’s more of the same down the
other side although the path has been partially made up. From
leaving Black Sail Pass, it takes something like two hours to get
back to Styhead Tarn. By now we’re both pretty tired and Martin is
also suffering with a dodgy ankle. An emergency Genoa cake, saved
for just such an eventuality, lifts our spirits and provides an
energy boost. An hour or so later we’re back at the car, some 12
hours or so after starting out. A long day but what a day!

Back at the campsite it seems as though we had the best of the
weather and I believe the words “However good your day has been,
ours has been better” were uttered. Adrian and Kearton arrived back
even later having had a standard issue IMC adventure on the Corvus
that involved Kearton falling on the crux traverse.

An altogether easier day was called for on the Friday so Shepherds
Crag is in order. Martin points me at the first pitch of Donkey’s
Ears before he takes the second pitch. Then it’s back to me for the
3rd pitch, which I make a complete bollix of. The guidebook
description is vague so I first try a low line that is far too
hard for the grade. A quick retreat allows me to try a higher line
but that isn’t going to give in easily either. That leaves the easy
option to the right at more like diff than severe but given the
fatigue from yesterday I’m really not bothered. With the security
of a top rope, Martin tries the possible lines and finds an option
that largely fits the grade but would be very bold on the lead.

By now it’s gone lunchtime so we sort food out. Having done so, the
wind picks up and a rain shower rolls in so a massed retreat to the
café takes place. The rain continues for a while so we have an
early retreat to the campsite. Remarkably we’ve been here a week
but haven’t made it to the pub so that evening we endeavour to put
some more money into the local economy. The hotel in the village of
Grange is only open to residents so we wander up the road to The
Leathes Hotel, partway to Shepherds Crag. No problem with letting
us into their very warm lounge but at over £10 for four drinks we
only stay for one round.

That evening saw the arrival of Bob, Simon & Karen and Steve &
Caroline.

Saturday sees us heading for Raven Crag for the well trodden route
of Corvus, hopefully avoiding the falling off the crux traverse and
descending in the dark experiences of recent ascents by IMC teams.
Parking by the roadside isn’t an option and we have to use the NT
car park at Seatoller – I’m still reeling from having to pay £4.50
to use their patch of tarmac for a few hours. The walk up to the
crag is uphill but steady and somewhat surprisingly there’s no one
else around. I get the first pitch, just to one side of a gully.
It’s pretty wet and as a consequence a good deal harder than the
grade – diff. By accident rather than design, I run the first and
most of the second pitch together, not stopping until a dry belay
ledge arrives. Martin than leads through and so we continue to the
top. The crux pitch comes at about halfway; Martin leads it and I
second but fail to find any difficulty in it but then we have been
climbing routes a good deal harder earlier in the week. Almost
before we know it we’re at the top and making our way back down.
With the exertions of recent days, every step is hard on the legs.

A fine, sociable evening follows with previously hidden skills at
juggling and with a Diablo being demonstrated by Simon.

Sunday starts wet and after extended faffing we undertake a mass
exodus to The National Mountaineering Exhibition at Rheged near
Penrith. The exhibition is OK, mainly about British attempts on
Everest. One of the exhibits is preserved frostbitten toes. Hmm,
nice. We also took in an American film about one of the climbers
who lost their lives on Everest in 1986. It was so good I can’t
remember the name of the climber! Whilst it was dry at Rheged, it
certainly wasn’t in Borrowdale and another less than sociable
evening confined to our tents ensued. Nick, Simon & Karen and Steve
& Caroline all decide enough is enough and head for either home or
sunnier climbing venues.

But wouldn’t you know it, the following day, when we are due to
come home, was bright and sunny. We walk up to Shepherds Crag again
and launch up the three pitches of Ardus. Martin gets the first
pitch and after the rain of the previous day it is greasy and
slippery. I lead through for the second pitch, starting with some
awkward bridging off the stance before tackling the corner crack.
It’s a bit strenuous and technical but that’s fine with me. Martin
then leads through for the third and final pitch, an interesting
traverse across a slab before taking a crack to the top. Although
the line looked a bit greasy and polished, it proved to be all
there and with sufficient protection.

Time for one more route before departing. Keen to end on a high
note, we tackle the V diff route of Brown Slabs Direct in glorious
sunshine.

Meanwhile, Simon and Bob, taken by tales of grand adventures on
Tophet Wall, opt for the big walk in and by all accounts weren’t
disappointed. They also got to see Dave Macleod cleaning and
working the moves on Breathless, an E10 on the wall above Tophet
Wall.

By the time we’ve been to the café and pack up at the campsite,
it’s about 4pm. Keen to avoid the jams on the M6 of previous years,
we head across to Scotch Corner and then down the A1, arriving in
Ipswich at about 9.30 – a most satisfactory end to a great week.