By Mike Hams – October 2006

Beginners weekend was the scene for my best ever day out in the Peak district.
Saturday dawned a tad damp and some hearing the forecast on Radio 4 went off to
Sheffield for a hard outing on plastic holds. My son Matthew and I along with
Judy, Beryl, Ian and Christina headed for the obligatory Lawrencefield trip. We
reasoned it would be sheltered, out of the cloud and may possibly dry given some
let up in the rain.

We weren’t disappointed in our guess and being a moderately concerned parent I
asked if Matthew could tag on the rope that went up Nailbane on the Gingerbread
slab. Last time out Matt had struggled and sworn at me (under his breath) all the
way up Snailcrack and I had put him off! So working on the basis that climbing
near to me but not with me would help confidence off he went. Being a foot or so
taller helped with the climb and he made a really good stylish ascent to the slab
while his dad looked on proudly. As the conquering hero returned to lunch on fine
food the heavens opened and thoughts of a trip up Pulpit Groove went out the
window.

Matt and I went and practiced some belay set-ups alongside the climbing area as he
hoped to lead something easy at sometime weather permitting. Several belay
arrangements were tried and clove hitches became second nature. It was all going
well and rock was drying from the shower. The other teams decided that a trip to
the Frustration area would be a good idea, as we weren’t inspired by the other
offerings in the Pool area. We arrived to find a top rope on every easy route and
an abseil on the hard ones. After some muttering we crossed the road to Millstone
and the Hells Bells area.

Here I finally climbed something Giants Steps. It was green and the holds were a
touch slippery. Thankfully under the watchful gaze of my 13 year-old I managed to
climb the horror without looking too bad! Minor complaints about rope drag were
due to my belayer doing his job properly as Ian informed me. (Performance anxiety,
what performance anxiety?) Matt had a nightmare on it, as he was just too short
for the move off the block in the corner of the ledge. I had to winch him up a
couple of inches at a time.

Time had marched on and it was dinner o’clock according to MMT (Matthew Meal
Time!) A return to camp and cooking followed. Some ale was consumed (his mother
will read this gentle reader) and a reasonable bedtime followed.

Sunday dawned reasonably wetly, team wuss headed for the café and the full
Hardhurst breakfast. I was reasonably concerned that we wouldn’t be getting off
the ground after the big feed. Froggatt was to be the venue, decided between the
second and third cups of tea.

Steve Culverhouse joined us for the trip, as he was part of the lift share. The
weather cleared to a moderately good day (by Peak standards) and Matt declared he
was ready for the challenge of the first lead. What to put him on? Well it could
only be Nursery Slab (M) in the Downhill Racer area. Steve kindly agreed to solo
alongside Matt giving advice on gear placements and Matt had climbed the route
before. Success should be a reasonably sure thing. (I wasn’t going home to explain
why the son and heir was dented to domestic management!)

Steve was calmness personified as he followed the putative leader up the climb.
Gear placements were tried and rejected, the belayer (me) had to work hard at
maintaining concentration. The man at the sharp end was fully aware of the
potentially exciting time that would be his if it all went wrong (I was working
out how to drop Steve off and flee the country before word got back home). An hour
or so later the call came “climb when ready”.

I set off in big boots to see how it had all gone. The gear placements were all
top notch (well done Steve and Matt). A very proud father topped out to shake his
son by the hand in best stiff-upper lip British Mountaineering tradition (Mallory
would have been proud of our control). I then hugged the hero and let my top lip
quiver a bit in a 90’s new-man fashion (those that are too young can ask their
parents about new-man).

Time was getting on so we left after one route (in line with my Mike one-route
Hams reputation) and headed home. It was without doubt my best ever days climbing
and will unlikely to be topped even if Matt drags me up E3 in the future. My
heartfelt thanks to Steve Culverhouse for making it all possible and Pete Tonks
for superb organisation of the whole weekend. (Can we have better weather next
time please?)