“I will be at North Burbage car park at ten on Friday, c u there!” That was the penultimate text I received from Adrian Berry, a top climber and climbing coach who I hoped was going to have an impact on my climbing grade, get me off this plateau and start moving me towards the magic Es.
Of course, it didn’t start there… it started Bank Holiday weekend in Derbyshire where a number of us collected to celebrate the coming of (middle) age of a certain Mr Bayley. The margaritas of the previous night had proved somewhat potent and Sunday found the team too hung over to do a great deal at all. Beryl and I took the hound for a much-needed walk and the ‘boys’ decided to stroll from Hardhurst to Hathersage as concerns were expressed over not being fit to drive! Super fit Ian took in a sub 2-hour mountainous Buxton half marathon showing us all up in good style. Nice one Ian!! J
Later in the day we all convened in the Outside café and whilst chomping through the excellent coffee cake I noticed a poster advertising a climbing coach who could help improve your grade. I was tempted… He didn’t look too ropey either which helped in the decision making process. Details were duly taken and later fuelled by food and alcohol I sent the man a text and he responded the following day detailing costs etc. I was more than tempted… Exchanges of e-mails the following week left me burrowing into guidebooks in a desperate attempt to come up with the perfect tick list. I sought the opinions of fellow climbers on ukclimbing.com as to what I should consider for a first E1 lead. Opinions didn’t differ greatly from my own and so finally – I had my list…
I mailed it to the man who said that it wasn’t what he was looking for and could I please tell him what sort of routes inspired me. I felt about 12 again having had homework returned covered in red pen!!
I replied telling him of my desires to climb a millstone crack and my fear of roofs and he responded with “fine, cracks and roofs it is”!!
So here I sit in the George Hotel in Hathersage, fed and watered (well that’ll be water post Divine intervention), and worry about what awaits me the next day. I had watched part II of the Neil Gresham Master class and am terrified that the first part of the day will focus on leader falls and how to cope with them. I know it’s something I need to work on; but all in
good time please??
As is expected of one’s friends I had received a fair amount of teasing about this course of action. My non-climbing girlfriends came up with comments from “does he do extras” to “do people know you’re meeting a strange man in a car park? Is he kosher?” The boys restricted themselves to requests that I text them to let them know which ward of the Royal Hallam I
was in.
Friday morning dawned clear and bright however, evidently a good day was in store. Adrian drew up and once introductions were taken care of, we walked to the crag. I was talked through a warm up routine and filmed doing some gentle bouldering and then we moved to a slab with a few dimples. Adrian taught me to squeak my boots and then he bouldered with tennis balls in his hands. Then it was my turn. Hummm… After a couple of half-hearted attempts I was excused tennis balls and attempted the route again. This time I was more successful but was unable to let go and jump down to the bouldering mat. This was overcome by donning the approach shoes, getting to the top of the boulder, hanging over the edge and then letting go and dropping. Ugh!! But I did it three times to make sure that I could cope with it. Adrian assured me that the first day of the course I am due to attend in Kalymnos would be dedicated to falling. Something to look forward to then, I thought. J
We next went to a trad route and I led a steep overhanging brute of a route called Mutiny Crack. It’s graded HS in the current RockFax but it is tough at that grade. It is VS in the BMC guide. The pro is good, but there are three overlaps to subdue and it is as pumpy as a very pumpy thing. Much whimpering and thugging finally led to success and afterwards Adrian spoke to me about the merits of taping the hands for crack climbs and of loose chalk.
A trip to Outside was agreed upon and we trooped off back to the car park. On our way we were approached by a lady walker asking if we could help rescue a lamb from a ditch where it had become trapped. Upon arrival at the scene Adrian simply stripped his shirt off, stood astride the ditch, plunged his arms either side of the lamb and hauled it out. The very grateful lady walker helped him clean his arms and we went shopping.
The next venue was Froggatt and we arrived at the foot of Three Pebble Slab, a route I love and have wanted to lead for many years.
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| Three Pebble Slab (click on image to view in Flickr) |
Adrian took me through the process of building up for a big lead. I checked the route, thought about what gear I would need, calmed myself with the breathing mechanisms we’d discussed in the morning, I squeaked my boots and was eventually ready to set off. I muffed getting to the first horizontal break but did it again and was soon at the second one; I placed a small cam and moved up to the pocket. I had thought it was a #6 nut but it’s a 4 and thankfully I had put a 4 and a 5 on my harness. When I did this before for some reason I put the cam in first and then had problems placing the nut; so wised up this time, I placed the nut first then the cam, clipped each to a separate rope and once the gear was placed I concentrated on the move. Gingerly, and with heart in mouth, I put my toe in the pocket and reached up for the break. Now I was standing above the gear and this next move was the one I had failed on before. I put my right
foot up for the rock over and could not get my weight over. I tried again, still couldn’t do it. I looked down at Adrian. “Try not putting your foot so far over.” he said “I know it’s a big ledge but just put your toe at the edge of it and try again.” I did as I was told and miraculously the rock
over worked, I got my weight over and my right hand crept onto the hold that had been for so long, tantalisingly out of reach. I stood on the ledge and faced the final black slab above. Gretel-like the route was clearly marked for me in the chalk of previous ascensionists. Again the
breathing and calming, and then I went for it. With success so nearly in my grasp I knew I was going to get to the top and practically yodel, but on arriving at the summit of my route nothing was further from my mind. I just stood there, shocked and looked down at Adrian. I wanted to shout for joy but the shock of actually achieving what I had wanted for so long had left me speechless. It was like I was in a dream and to a certain extent it still has not sunk in.
I was navel lint for what remained of the day. I could not get myself on to the block at Tody’s Wall – just didn’t trust my gear. So I need to go back and get that done. Adrian showed me how to tape my hands for crack climbing and I struggled on an evil crack climb, trying to learn crack
climbing techniques (a project methinks!) and finally he soloed Long John’s Slab to put a top rope up for me, but I think the old bod had had it for the day. I spent what seemed like ages dangling on the end of the rope but I’m blowed if I could reach the next crimp. I was very disappointed with myself.
However, despite being disappointed with my efforts later in the day, I have to say the day as a whole was well worth it. I learnt so much, much more in that day than I have in the past 5 years, and I achieved my goal. Adrian is a really good coach, explains things well, is pretty patient and
makes you believe in yourself. He gave me some things to work on and I will definitely be going back for another session.
Adrian can be contacted via his website at www.positiveclimbing.com
Thanks, Adrian for a fabulous day out, I could never have done 3PS without your guidance and making me believe in myself.
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| Adrian Berry soloing Long John Slab E3 5c |