“The dark arts of route finding really are another world to me” I thought on the slip road to rejoin the M1 having just missed two turnings to the car park for the services and therefore my much-awaited coffee. A few miles further on we left the motorway and were heading toward Hathersage and the North Lees campsite. Vasek and I were off for a few days in The Peak District, and I just hoped that this first slight mishap was not an omen.

The previous few days had been wet and we had started out from Ipswich in a slight drizzle but finer weather had been promised; as we drove up, though we had the odd spit of rain, the skies cleared and everything around was drying nicely. And then, just after lunch we were at Millstone.

Real rock for the first time since Whitsun – seventh heaven. But Bond Street as the first route? Well at least Vasek was on the sharp end. Off he went and it was amazing to watch as, half way up, he used one of his homemade pieces of protection – a fist-sized Czech rope-knot. And what a satisfying piece it looked I noted when I removed it. And then he was calling ‘climb when ready’.

Jamming – another dark art that still needs my attention. I have lead this route cleanly but for the second time this year I came a cropper, though this time below the crux, and off I came.

The bottom pitch of Embankment 1 at VS 4c was my re-introduction to traditional leading. I’d call it unusual; Vasek said horrible.

North Lees was as quiet as you’d expect in late November; gurgling brook and stars – bliss.

Wednesday and on a dry and bright morning we walked up to Stanage following Vasek’s thoughts; as he had a plan I led first so he had a chance to warm up before the main
event – whatever he decided. Fern Crack – a feature of The Follow-on Weekend I recall – what fun.

Guy on Fern Crack (click on any image to view in Flickr)

And then the top-out. Yep – the Stanage winds were there and I watched half the contents of my chalk bag get blown across the Derbyshire landscape. I made a mental not to close my bag at he top of each route – and then forgot each and every time.

Vasek’s turn and with a fixed smile and a secret groan I agree to second Goliath’s Groove. He is strong enough, I know, and there is fun to be had, but I seem to remember losing skin last time. The start gave me as many problems as I had expected but I was glad that Vasek had chosen it
especially when I found another one of his Czech knots as I removed the gear.

Vasek already had his next route in his sights so as we walked toward Millsom’s Minion I decided on Parasite. The difficulties on the latter are low down and things ease after that but I was happy to make the step to HVS.

As Vasek made ready for Millsom’s Minion I remember that I followed The Webmaster on this route a while ago and enjoyed a moment of airtime and as I write I have still to second this cleanly let alone lead it.

Vasek had made it all look so smooth and I felt good as I started out but it only lasted until the move up to the shallow pocket and at that point I wish I hadn’t traded height for good looks. Hey ho. Another route to come back to.

Darkness had started to fall so after a great day we made our way back to the campsite.

After an extremely windy Wednesday we decided on a sheltered venue for Thursday and headed to Lawrencefield. Both of us had plans and I lead first so Vasek could warm up safely for his choice. Great fun on Great Harry – what a great way to start a day.

Guy starts Great Harry

As I looked at the start of Vasek’s choice I wondered about gear placements. “Oh, none until the arête.” he said.

Suspense E2 5c

As he starts off I watch Vasek finding holds for hands and feet in what looks like a blank wall. Tremendous.

Vasek starts Suspense

And then he is at the ledge, and then the arête and so finally a piece of gear. I am tied to the large block and with the rope tight I am at the edge of the platform where I can see Vasek as he starts up the face above the pool.

Slowly but surely he makes his way up; small holds and small gear seems to be the order of the day.

Suspense is right and there is a definite hush around the quarry as Vasek checks his gear, ‘shakes out’ and checks his gear again. He’s at the crux; thin crack, small gear and a long reach. All breath is held, no sound of wind. One smooth move and he’s at the top. What a bloody lead!

“Make sure the belay is bomber.” I call up, having seen what is expected of me.

I need to leap to reach one hold on the first part – perhaps I won’t be leading this in the near future – but things ease a bit as I near the arête. And then the face.

It’s all there but I am on a rope, I can imagine how different it would be at the sharp end; they say it’s a lonely lead and I can see why. As Maria would have said, “you need confidence in confidence itself”.

Guy near the top of Suspense

The view from the top is excellent and having just lead it must have been twice as nice.

Over to me. A year ago I led and fell on Great Peter and here I was again, this time to claim its scalp. The first moves are really a boulder problem and then the crack begins. After a few feet I can hear Vasek recommending that I should consider placing some gear, followed by a
sigh of relief when I do.

‘Pleasantly delicate and well protected with small wires’ is a perfect description, and I have a whale of a time until I reach the place of my nemesis from last year. Déjà vu. After a couple of vain attempts I alert Vasek and seconds later I am airborne. At Copleston a week or so later
we asked each other what had passed through our minds at that moment. Honestly I did not think anything apart from “Bum, foiled again”. Vasek held the fall nicely and allowed me a short rest. The move itself is not that difficult, I was just not up to it at that moment, and soon I was
setting up the belay at the top.

The number 3 Wallnut that had taken the fall had to be knocked out using a rock and a nut key but it did come home with me.

Vasek finished the day and the trip with a jaunt up Three Tree Climb: great fun after a great few days. And then we were in the car heading back toward the M1 and The South.

I managed to find my way into Costa at the Tibshelf services this time and over coffee we congratulated ourselves on choosing three dry days between two seriously wet weekends, and patted ourselves on the back for the selection of routes that we had enjoyed. The crowning glory of which was surely Vasek on Suspense.