By Fraser Hale
- Q: How do make the Greater Crested Rock Climber (usually tough & sinewy) more tender?
- A: Hang in a harness for two days and dress with screwgates and slings.
The result is a very tender climber that can get itself and its mates out of any
kind of trouble that doesn’t involve impregnation or the duty solicitor.
Next time you’re at the wall or the crag you may spot an IMCer or two who
appears to be, well, hidden. Camouflaged under the largest collection of
karabiners, slings and Prusik loops to be seen anywhere outside of Action
Outdoors (Dave, make the cheque out to…..).
Far from needing your sympathy, or the number of a good counsellor, these
bedecked individuals are worthy of your respect and admiration (well, you should
at least refrain from taking the p**s too much) for they have completed the
Advanced Ropework for Climbers course at PYB!
Subtitled “101 Things to do with 18 inches of String” the course covers
belaying, abseiling and self rescue techniques for climbers of all grades (even
me) and is a glorification of the humble Prusik Loop! Seriously, there is no
situation, however bad, that cannot be made at least a little better with a
Prusik. Never leave home without one. If Custer had had a Prusik in his pocket
he would probably have stood again somewhere. Had Edward Smith not left home
without a Loop the Titanic would probably have steamed safely in to New York
harbour. Sadly for both these individuals, Dr. Karl Prusik didn’t invent the
thing until 1931, until which time the world had to make do with repeating
rifles and Morse keys to deal with emergencies – what chance did they have?
Anyway, in the hands of a trained expert the combination of a climbing rope,
Prusik loops, and a handful of slings and krabs can produce safety and rescue
systems that are not only practical but things of modest beauty. In the hands of
your humble author, however, these same ingredients quickly took on the
appearance of a nursery school macramé project! Saint-like patience on the part
of our excellent instructors, and perseverance from the participants soon
yielded results, though, and by the end of the weekend we were all far more
knowledgeable and confident about what to do if something were to go a bit pear-shaped
out on the crag.
Despite the slightly grim weather the course was very well organised and the
facilities at Plas Y Brenin meant that we were able to spend every available
minute doing something constructive and interesting. Sunday afternoon finally
blessed us with sunshine and we got to try out our new found skills on some
“weel wock”. The weekend was further enhanced by having to camp in the shadow of
Snowdon, being forced to subsist on Castle Eden and Welsh Lamb and to spend long
hours in the company of The Illustrious Order of Tone Lowerers. Still; no pain,
no gain.
We all agree that we need to practice what we’ve learnt, to turn the new
techniques into habits before we pretend that we’re experts, but as a grounding
in the art of getting out of the s**t, I can only recommend the course as a
weekend very well spent.
So, when El Pres strolls past you on his way to Right Unconquerable, looking
like a sandwich board for “Slings R Us”, and offers to belay you up that bold E1
you’ve been considering – run like hell!