‘Below’ at The Vent … An IMC adventure in the Cairngorms
By Nick Green – April 2006
“I don’t believe it!” Victor Meldrew shouted in my head. As we had hoped, there were not many ropes in Coire An Lochain; in fact only 4, but 3 were headed for the same climb as Keith and me- “The Vent”, a grade II/III single star 100m gully climb to the summit of Cairn Lochan.
We had set off from Aviemore car park with Nick Willis and Phil Crouchman, planning to split up when we reached the Corrie. Visibility on the crags was non-existent from our central and sheltered vantage point. As mist and snow enveloped the upper crags the four of us struggled to identify the start of any of the guidebook climbs. It was Nick W who puzzled out ‘The Vent’. ‘The Vent’ it was then, and we agreed to regroup at the top.
Spotting another couple heading that way Keith and I headed after them, hoping to follow their trail. The snow was deep and hard going, we often sunk to our knees or even deeper. Other climbers’ foot placements were much easier. Nick W and Phil headed lower, also hoping for easier going.
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| The Vent – Before (click on picture to see image in Flickr) |
I was not happy that they beat us to the start, as did the other
rope: as Keith’s second it meant I would go last, and therefore had
a long wait ahead. Settling down on freshly cut platforms the four
of us watched the first rope struggle up the two steep ice
sections. Cries of ‘below’ were regular as chunks of dislodged ice
tumbled down. Most missed our station where The Vent widened below
the crux. The steep sides of the gully protected us from the wind
and we were grateful for that as we drunk yet more hot liquids to
keep warm.
Nick W quickly set up a belay position as the other couple
disappeared over the crux onto what the guidebook described as
‘easier ground’. Keith agreed to re-use the belay to save time, as
there was not much protection around.
We could clearly see the exciting ice sections, but not what lay
above. A chockstone blocked the narrow part of a funnel-shaped
steep-sided gully. Steep ice to the right looked to be the key. It
appeared easy from below and both Keith and I got frustrated as
Nick also struggled at this first challenge. Plenty more ‘below’
and falling ice bouncing off our helmets. At last Nick was up and
moving efficiently, placing plenty of pro and looking cool. Phil,
seconding, was also delayed at first. ‘Come on’ echoed in my head.
In a blink Phil was also up, then disappeared over the remaining
ice sections into the mist and spindrift above. ‘I can’t wait any
more’ were Keith’s words. We had waited 12 months for this. We were
both raring to go!!
I couldn’t pay the rope out fast enough as Keith scrambled up the
steep snow slope to the chockstone. Then he stopped . . .. I
wondered . . . maybe it is quite hard after all! (Sorry chaps!)
Then Keith was up and over-heading towards the next steep ice
section, ‘PRO!!’ I shouted. He only had one piece in, just up from
my belay position. He would have a long way to fall! But Keith was
going for it. Up he went. Hanging from two axes, both feet looking
for a purchase in the steep ice, he moved on.
‘BEELOWWW!!!!!’ I dared to glance up, this sounded serious!! All I
could see was a white mass engulfing Keith. Ooooh SHIT! I held the
rope and ducked. Fully expecting to have to hold Keith’s fall I
braced myself. Snow, snow and more snow hurtled down The Vent. Most
missed me, but I still found myself up to my knees. All of it would
have hit Keith.
As silence followed the snow down the gully I lifted my head, not
knowing what I would see. My eyes followed the line of the rope …
having held on there was Keith, climbing again!!
Nick W bravely retraced his steps to check on Keith. Both he and
Phil were also caught by what we later learnt was a cornice
collapse. They were both safe, located to the side of the upper
section of The Vent; a widening funnel, also with steep rocky
sides.
Adrenaline pumping I reached Keith who was now belaying me. ‘Carry
on up!’ he shouted, visibly shaken. ‘Tell you later!’ As we went up
another two pitches of steep snow I was last again. ‘Someone’s in a
hurry’ I thought, as I was virtually pulled up the last pitch and
through the cornice……………. only to be met by a white out.
Nick W and Phil had waited for us in blizzard conditions. Pacing on
Nick’s compass bearing, and giving thanks to Louise for showing
Phil the way on a previous occasion, we made it back to the car.
Then hot shower, food and beer! What an adventure!!
With many thanks to Nick Willis and Phil Crouchman for their
support; and Peter for pulling the trip together.
Little did we know the journey home would be even more dangerous . . . .
See you there next year!!