'Air Traffic Controller', belaying device made by Black Diamond.
Avalanche
Lots of snow or ice sliding down a mountain.
Bandolier
Sling or stiffened nylon band worn over the shoulder and used to carry gear, used instead of using the gear loops on a harness. Recommended when climbing on sea cliffs to enable easy jettisoning of gear upon falling into the sea to stop you from drowning.
Barn door, to
To lose the foot and hand holds on one side of the body. Usually causes the climber to swing like a barn door.
Base camp
The lowest and largest fixed camp on a major ascent (or multiple ascents in the same area).
Beer
Liquid consumed in large quantities after climbing.
Disc with two slots used to assist braking effort of belayer during a leaderfall, more commonly seen with an attached spring to allow freer running of the rope whilst belaying, yet retaining the full braking effect of the plate only type. Modern equivalents are the Tuba, ATC, and other manufacturers terms.
Rock climb that is so long and sustained that a normal ascent lasts several days.
Bivouac
Or short, bivi. An uncomfortable sleeping place in the middle of a route.
Blackboarding
Sliding down a slab using the fingertips and fingernails to try to slow descent. Derived from the sensation and sound from dragging fingernails down a blackboard at school.
Black ice
Old ice that was exposed to extremely cold temperatures, scree, and snowfall. Usually found deep in shady couloirs, or on steep north faces. Very hard and dense ice that is difficult to climb.
Blue ice
Very dense ice with a watery hue and few air bubbles.
The part of the mountain or rock that stands in front of the main mountain face.
Cam
Generic reference to the family of spring loaded camming devices (SLCD) such as friends, camalots, aliens, TCUs, etc.
Carabiner
The alternative American spelling of the word Karabiner.
Cartooning
The action of both arms and legs scrabbling frantically at the rock during a fall, derived from Tom & Jerry Cartoons.
Chalk
Magic powder that makes the hands stick to even the smoothest rock.
Chalk
The soft chalk cliffs on the south coast of England have recently provided some enthusiastic winter climbers with a substitute venue. Protection is usually psychological, you need to have had the operation to allow you to remove the brain before climbing this type of rock, if you can call it rock
Chest harness
Bra-like looking harness (to be used with waist harness).
Chimney
A wide crack that accommodates (most of) the body of the climber.
Chimney, to
A climbing technique used to conquer chimneys. Usually requires the use of the back and feet, arms, head and other body parts.
Chipped hold
A hold created with a hammer and chisel by a moron incapable of doing the climb as it is.
Chock
Generic reference to the family of passive wired protection devices, also called nuts, stoppers, wires, and rocks.
Excellent Severe gradeclimb at Tremadog in North Wales. Has to be done.
Christmas Curry
Annual Ipswich Mountaineering Club Christmas meal in Indian Restaurant. Includes Annual awards, especially 'Lob of the Year', see our 'Roll of Honour' page.
Classic
An occasionally over-used term usually applied to a long-standing route, which has become recognised as being of very high quality. Also used in connection with outdated techniques, e.g. 'classicclimbing' using walking boots instead of modern rock boots, and only nuts and hexes.
An overhanging curve of snow often formed by wind at the head of a gully or at the side of a ridge. These are not always obvious from above and are therefore dangerous, collapsing without warning
A sling sewn (or tied) with numerous loops, used as an adjustable sling in aid climbing.
Deadman
An extremely effective snow belay device, consisting of a thin alloy plate, rectangular in shape with the lower end gently pointed and the upper end reinforced to take hammer blows. It has a long cable loop attached for securing the rope/slings to.
Deadpoint
A dynamic move where the next hold is grabbed at the very top of the motion (if you lunge upwards, that is just before you start falling again). By grabbing a hold in its 'deadpoint', you place the smallest possible loads on the holds.
Deck
The usually unfriendly surface that welcomes you at the end of a ground hitting fall.
Descending the difficult way, usually down a low-gradeclimb, or backing off a too difficult climb.
Drag
Friction generated by a rope running over rock features, jamming in cracks etc. Minimised by using a double rope and by careful placement of protection.
Dynamic belay
A belay method in which some rope is allowed to slip during severe falls. A dynamic belay can severely reduce the impact force from a serious fall, but can also severely kill you if not done properly.
Foot technique where one uses the edge of the climbing shoe to stand on small foot holds. The opposite of smearing.
Epic
The story of a well-planned climb that turned into a gruelling adventure that turned out well in the end. As these stories are told over and over again - and they always are - the details get stretched to supernatural proportions for dramatic effect.
To become very unsure and sketchy. When the flailing goes into frantic grabbing for holds, a fall is not far away.
Flake
A thin bit of rock that is detached from the main face. Piece of crumbly chocolate often found in an ice cream cone after climbing.
Flapper
A piece of skin torn off your hand that creates a bloody wound. Usually happened when holding on too hard when gravity is winning.
Flared
A crack or chimney with sides that are not parallel, but instead form two converging planes of rock.
Flash, to
To lead a climb with no falls or dogging and with no previous attempts on the climb. Two variations exist: the onsight flash (where the climber has never seen the climb before) and the beta flash (where the climber has studied the climb before or has seen someone do the climb).
Trade name for the original camming devices, now also available as Camalots, TCU's, Quads, Aliens, Big Dudes, etc. Useful person to have when climbing, unless you are into soloing.
Front pointing
Front pointing in crampons involves kicking in the front points of the crampons into either snow or ice, not recommended on rock!
Gardening
The limited removal of vegetation from a rock climb, revealing holds and making an ascent easier. Popular activity for rock climbers partners who are not into rock climbing and stay at home. Single rock climbers gardens tend to desperately need this due to lack of time spent at home during the climbing season.
All the climbing equipment a climber owns, from the bear essentials through to a complete rack or more, as owned by Johnny Gearman. Can take a long time to build up a complete gear rack due to the cost, but climbing can be achieved with a minimal gear rack.
Gearing up
Adorning a climber's body in all the gear they own, either attached to the harness, or a bandolier, and draped around the neck.
Grade
An adjectival and/or number denoting the seriousness of a route.
Granite
A deep-formed, volcanic rock, with a crystalline structure and course grain. Much of the World's best climbing is on Granite, which can form superb pillars, faces and slabs.
Grass Skirt
Large amount of gear hanging from the gear loops of a harness, visually similar to South Pacific Skirt. Usually accompanied by extremely loud clattering as gear hits gear whilst the climber is walking between climbs.
Grounder
A fall where the kinetic energy is not absorbed by the rope and gear, but rather by mother earth itself. Can hurt badly.
Grigri
Nifty but somewhat controversial belaying device made by Petzl.
Gripped
Paralysed with fear and utterly confused.
Gritstone
A sedimentary rock allied to Sandstone but with rougher particles of quartz embedded in the matrix along the feldspar. Extremely grippy rock which usually makes up for the lack of square cut holds, usually referred to as 'Rounded Gritstone Holds' where the climber has to trust in friction, on steep faces, of both rock boots and hands.
Guide Book
Essential equipment for rock climbers to be able to find suitable climbs within their grade capability, unless you are into first ascents and want to get your name into a guidebook. Contain much useful information about access, history, local features and/or peculiarities of the area covered.
Gully
A wide, shallow ravine on a mountainside.
Half rope
A rope of 9 or 8.5 mm that has to be used in pairs with a second rope when leading a climb. Safer than a single rope, and can reduce ropedrag on long runouts, especially on routes that wander across the rock face.
Slightly masochistic technique where the hand is wedged into a crack. On Gritstone results in 'Gritstone Rash'.
Handle
Big banana-shaped hold often found in indoor gyms. Great for waving hello to admiring bystanders. It may sound bizarre, but I've never seen one of those outdoors...
Piece of clothing that identifies you as a climber. The coolness factor can be significantly enhanced by hanging things from the harness that go cling.
Haul bag
Large and robust bag used to haul food, water, climbinggear, sleeping bag, television, satellite dish, and other essential equipment that is required, up a big wall.
Where the face of a mountain steepens dramatically.
"Help"
The vocal alternative to 6 signals a minute. In far away countries try SOS
Helmet
Solid plastic device that can sometimes protect the head from falling stones or impact.
Hex
Short for Hexentrix. A type of nut with an eccentric hexadiagonal shape. Works for wedging (as a nut) but also for camming.
HMS
Karabiner with one wide side used for belaying with a munter hitch (aka pearabiner). From the German term for munter hitch belay:
Hold
An irregularity of rock which can be used by a climber for progress or rest.
Ice axe
Device used for ice climbing, glacier crossing, or scaring away burglars.
Ice screw
A protection device for ice climbing. Looks like a large bolt that can be screwed in hard ice.
IMC
Ipswich Mountaineering Club.
Interesting
Term used to describe a climb that just scared the living daylights out of you, but which you don't wish to admit to. Usually used to prompt another climber to have a go to see if they find it frightening as well.
Metal connecting device, sometimes spelled with a 'c' in the US. This most essential climbing device in large quantities is also known as "crab" or "krab".
Kernmantle rope
Modern climbing rope consisting of bundles of continuous nylon filaments (Kern) surrounded by a braided protective sheath (Mantle).
kN
Kilonewton. An abbreviation usually found on karabiners and other climbinggear. For those of you who are not engineers, one kilonewton is about 100 kg or about 220 lbs. (And for those of you who are, don't bother lecturing me).
Somewhat clumsy looking climbing technique where hands and feet work in opposition. Position Johnny Gearman can be found in at climbing venues, watching other climbers, offering helpful advice on climbing moves, taking photos, eating lunch and generally relaxing.
Flat bit on a rock (can be miniature or gigantic).
Limestone
A sedimentary rock of marine origin, often containing fossil remains. Limestone crags are often steep and smooth, and with the passage of time and many climbers becomes very polished, useful if you have left your mirror at the campsite.
Line
The way taken by a route, and followed by climbers. A good line may be one, which follows some strong, natural weakness up the rock face or mountain.
To hold on to the rock with one bent arm while using the other arm to reach up for the next hold or to place or clip protection. Lock-offs on small holds will get you pumped in a hurry.
Lowering
To descend something or somebody by the belayer paying out the rope in a controlled manner, often used as the only means of descent at climbing walls when the climber has completed the route, when not done in a controlled manner often followed by verbal abuse from the climber.
Manky
Term used to describe a fixed bolt that looks like it was placed before the last ice age. Use these bolts at your own discretion
Mantleshelf
Difficult balancing move useful to get up on ledges.
Micronuts
Extremely small protection, used especially on Slate climbs, and made from brass for its ability to absorb the shock of a fall by deforming in shape. Due to their small size they tend to be used in groups to spread the load of a fall as individually they are not capable of withstanding the forces applied by a fall.
Mixed climbing/route
Climbing with a combination of different methods of ascent. e.g. mixed free and aid climbing, mixed rock and ice climbing, etc.
Moat
The gap between snow and ice on a rock wall. Has posed problems ever since the middle ages.
Mountain rescue
The people who put their life on the line when you screw up badly.
Multi pitch climb
Climb that consists of more than a single pitch. Requires extra skills over single pitch climbing, but is the ultimate goal of all rock climbers.
Munter hitch
Knot used for belaying (Aka Italian hitch or friction hitch).
The lowest passage between two mountains. The French - but not just the French - know this as a col. The mathematicians would call this the saddle point.
Party ledge
A somewhat larger ledge used to rest (and party!) during a particularly hard or long climb. Sometimes used to refer to the belay station on a multi pitchclimb. Get the kettle out.
A swing on the rope, either intentional to gain a distant anchor on big wallclimbs or unintentional when falling during a traverse with not enough gear in place.
Pillar
Outside corner
Pink point
To red-point a climb where the gear and runners have been pre-placed.
Pitch
A section of climb between two belays and no longer than the length of one rope (this used to mean 45m, nowadays pitches can also be 50 or even 60m long -- check your topo).
Piton
Metal spike hammered into a crack (has come in disuse for all but some special applications) (Aka "peg").
Pocket
A hold formed by a (small) depression in the rock.
Portaledge
A hanging tent with built in bed used on big walls (and big trees).
Pro, Protection
Anchors placed during the climb to protect the leader. Beware: even properly placed gear does not prevent pregnancy or the transmission of STDs.
Prusik
The sliding knot or the method to ascend a rope (named after its inventor Dr. Karl Prusik).
Prusik loops
Loops of cord using Prusik knots to ascend a rope, used in self-rescue
Psychological protection
The placement of protection which is known to be poor, but whose existence gives a leader a psychological 'boost', often enough to make the difference between failure or success. This mild example of self-delusion is acceptable in moderation. Leaders who insist on continuing to lead on a succession of such protection soon find it difficult to obtain seconds prepared to partner them. However technique which has to be used in great abundance when climbingchalkcliffs.
Pumped
The feeling of overworked muscles. Most climbers are familiar with the forearm pump: too much finger work causes the forearms to swell and the strength to disappear. With a serious forearm pump, even holding a glass of beer can become a serious challenge.
An alternative to chalk. Resin (or "pine tree resin" to use its full name) is made from the yucky stuff that sticks to your hands when you touch a pine tree. Because resin is mostly colourless, it is preferred to chalk in some areas. But caution: Don't let the colour fool you. Resin can do permanent damage to the rock and in fact is not allowed anywhere in the US for that reason.
A slender buttress. Something between a buttress and an outside corner.
Ridge
The high divide extending out from a peak.
Ring
A large (2 inch diameter) ring that is cemented in the rock as a bolt. Rings are very common in Germany, France and Southern Sandstone and are excellent for rappelling and hanging belays.
Roof
Seriously overhanging part in a climb (more or less horizontal).
Rope
Long and round nylon fabrication. Climbingropes are generally between 10 and 11 mm in diameter (with the exception of "half ropes" which are between 8.5 and 9mm in diameter).
"Rope below"
Should be yelled when a rope is about to be thrown to the base of the crag (though most of the time it seems like it is shouted about 1-2 seconds after the rope is thrown).
Distance between two elements of gear. A route is "runout" when the distance between those two elements of gear becomes uncomfortably long.
Saddle
A high pass that looks somewhat like what horses wear. Not quite as steep as a col.
"Safe"
The call which indicates to the belayer that the climber is secure and the belay can be released.
Sand Bag
To induce another climber to attempt a route that is well under graded.
Sandstone
A sedimentary rock formed by grains of quartz held together by cement. Soft sandstone weathers very readily and can be very loose and offer no possibility of using protection resulting in either soloing or top roping. The harder types can give excellent climbing, often of a strenuous nature, with steep walls and rounded holds.
Scoop
A shallow depression in a rock face, sometimes providing a resting place on an otherwise strenuously steep wall.
Scrambling
Easy climbing usually unroped. Rush to get to the pub in the evening, especially through the doorway.
Screamer
A very, very long fall. Special piece of equipment meant to reduce the impact of a screamer (the fall) on the belay system. Designed so that the stitching rips apart in a controlled way.
Scree
Loose rocks and stones that cover the slope below a cliff. With every step, scree slides under your feet.
Screwgate
The type of Karabiner that can be locked with a screw.
Seagull Basher
Large Hex. Term derived from the use of a large hex to defend oneself from attacking seagulls when climbing on sea cliffs.
Second
The climber who follows the leader. Amount of time available in order to begin ice braking with an ice axe during a fall.
A leg under tension that suddenly starts jerking up and down like a sewing machine. Drop the heel, take a deep breath, and don't think of falling... See also Disco leg.
This metamorphic rock is usually climbed on in disused quarries, particularly in Wales. The most difficult type of rock to climb due to its smooth and extremely brittle nature. Different skills are required for slate climbing, for example, tapping the rock as you ascend to find the hollow bits, which abound on much slate due to winter frosts splitting the slate. Good rope work essential as slate is very sharp and will slice through a rope like a knife through butter.
Climbing alone, without the protection of a rope. Often performed by climbers who can no longer find climbing partners due to their gung-ho attitude to climbing.
Sport climbing
Climbingroutes of (extreme?) gymnastic difficulty while protecting oneself by clipping copiously numbered and generously spaced preplaced free protection.
Spot, to
Action of standing immediately behind soloer ready to catch them should they fall, especially used at climbing walls which offer very poor matting, or if the wall is very busy with climbers waiting to climb. Also performed whilst bouldering on rock where the landing site is not favourable for landing comfortably. Usually psychologically helpful to the soloer and often helps them complete the move, which they might not be able to do if not 'spotter' available.
Summit
The top of a mountain or rock.
Summit, to
To reach the summit.
Sustained
A pitch or route with a level of difficulty which is relentless for most of the way, offering no opportunity to rest comfortably.
"Take in"
Term used by the leader to indicate there is too much slack in the rope system, also used when tackling the crux move and airtime is expectant.
"Taking in"
Heard often in British crags, meaning the climber is "off belay" and about to pull up the slack between him and the belayer.
Tape knot
Knot used solely for joining a length of tape to form a sling. Only knot that can be used for this purpose.
Tarn
A small lake.
"That's me"
Part of the climbing dialogue. Courtesy call to the belayer to indicate that the slack in the rope is all taken up and that further pulling is pointless.
Thrutchy
Requiring a whole lot of strength (and enthusiasm in a way). Used in Australia - where all the climbing is upside down.
A short drawing of the route. Good topos will allow you to spot the line right away, show the placement of bolts and belay stances, indicate where the crux is and what rating it has.
A locking karabiner where the gate is locked with a spring-loaded clip.
Undercut
A hold that would be a perfect bucket if gravity were upside down. As it is, undercuts are usually awkward holds that require lieback type moves.
Vegetation
Pure rock climbing has only one place for vegetation, the tree belay. Other vegetation, grass, moss, lichen, heather etc. is regarded as a nuisance, obscuring holds, retaining moisture.
Verglas
Thin water ice on rock.
"Watch me"
Call to indicate the climber is about to do something stupid -- like fall.
Water ice
Ice formed directly from frozen water. Water ice is clear and brittle and contains few air bubbles. Sometimes water is even flowing around the ice.
Water knot
See tape knot.
Webbing (tubular)
Flat and strong strip of nylon, that is hollow in the inside.
The delicate test of placing weight on a piece of gear after placing it. Usually with aid climbing.
"Wellard"
Descriptive term used by a climber immediately after completing, or failing to complete a climb of a difficult, strenuous, sustained, or pumpy nature. Derived from combining the 2 words 'Well' and 'Hard'.
Whatsyours?
Expression used at Pubs when standing near bar with wads of money in the hand. Usual reply is 'Minesa...........'. Very welcome amongst climbers.
