By Fraser Hale - June 2005
The result is a very tender climber that can get itself and its mates out of any kind of trouble that doesn't involve impregnation or the duty solicitor.
Next time you're at the wall or the crag you may spot an IMCer or two who appears to be, well, hidden. Camouflaged under the largest collection of karabiners, slings and Prusik loops to be seen anywhere outside of Action Outdoors (Dave, make the cheque out to.....).
Far from needing your sympathy, or the number of a good counsellor, these bedecked individuals are worthy of your respect and admiration (well, you should at least refrain from taking the p**s too much) for they have completed the Advanced Ropework for Climbers course at PYB!
Subtitled "101 Things to do with 18 inches of String" the course covers belaying, abseiling and self rescue techniques for climbers of all grades (even me) and is a glorification of the humble Prusik Loop! Seriously, there is no situation, however bad, that cannot be made at least a little better with a Prusik. Never leave home without one. If Custer had had a Prusik in his pocket he would probably have stood again somewhere. Had Edward Smith not left home without a Loop the Titanic would probably have steamed safely in to New York harbour. Sadly for both these individuals, Dr. Karl Prusik didn't invent the thing until 1931, until which time the world had to make do with repeating rifles and Morse keys to deal with emergencies - what chance did they have?
Anyway, in the hands of a trained expert the combination of a climbing rope, Prusik loops, and a handful of slings and krabs can produce safety and rescue systems that are not only practical but things of modest beauty. In the hands of your humble author, however, these same ingredients quickly took on the appearance of a nursery school macramé project! Saint-like patience on the part of our excellent instructors, and perseverance from the participants soon yielded results, though, and by the end of the weekend we were all far more knowledgeable and confident about what to do if something were to go a bit pear-shaped out on the crag.
Despite the slightly grim weather the course was very well organised and the facilities at Plas Y Brenin meant that we were able to spend every available minute doing something constructive and interesting. Sunday afternoon finally blessed us with sunshine and we got to try out our new found skills on some "weel wock". The weekend was further enhanced by having to camp in the shadow of Snowdon, being forced to subsist on Castle Eden and Welsh Lamb and to spend long hours in the company of The Illustrious Order of Tone Lowerers. Still; no pain, no gain.
We all agree that we need to practice what we've learnt, to turn the new techniques into habits before we pretend that we're experts, but as a grounding in the art of getting out of the s**t, I can only recommend the course as a weekend very well spent.
So, when El Pres strolls past you on his way to Right Unconquerable, looking like a sandwich board for "Slings R Us", and offers to belay you up that bold E1 you've been considering - run like hell!
The view from the accommodation