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Let’s face it, Harrison’s Rocks isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. All the climbs are top roped, many of the popular routes are worn smooth and it can get very busy.
But sometimes it just isn’t possible to go climbing for the entire weekend. Sometimes the Peaks seem just a little too far away for a day. And when all you have is a twenty five metre rope and a harness but you’ve still got to climb something; then Harrison’s Rocks, less than two hours from Ipswich, rise up the list of preferred locations like a cork in a bottle of champagne.
On a sunny crisp Saturday in mid October Dan, Ala and I found ourselves in the aforementioned predicament and set off for the Rocks. And what a great day we had.
I think the three of us took it in the spirit of “outdoor practise” and the very fact that it is all top roped meant that we moved quickly from climb to climb, therein getting lots of practise.
Harrison’s Rock is soft sandstone and many of the faces are covered in a very fine film of sand making it feel as if you have a million tiny ball bearings beneath every hand and foot. Consequently, holds can be difficult to maintain so balance and precision is needed if you don’t wish to find yourself sliding slowly but surely sideways, down and eventually off.
Traversing is particularly difficult on these soft rocks and Zig Zag (4c) as the name suggests provided a test of sideways moving skills and balance. Ala deftly climbed to the top but Dan and I were found wanting at the first time attempt when we both came off in slow motion.
We started the day though on Long Layback (4c), a terrific climb recommended by Martin and my particular favourite of the day. Funnily enough it is one long layback and definitely a climb to enjoy as a lay back, although climbable using other (perhaps unorthodox) techniques as Dan and Ala proved.
We moved from North to South during the day and next stop was Isolated Buttress. Yes you have guessed it. Isolated Buttress is a buttress which is isolated. It provides about a dozen great climbs. A considerable inconvenience however of climbing on the Buttress is the descent off it. Getting to the top, I discovered to my horror that the buttress it is a little more isolated than it really should be. A very large step or small to leap is required across a ravine where a slip would probably mean certain death. Other than that the descent is fine. In the prosaic spirit of naming at Harrison’s, I think it should be re-named the Inconveniently Isolated Buttress Across the Ravine of Probably Certain Death.
We did two climbs on the buttress; The Isolated Buttress Climb (4b) and the strength sapping Birchden Corner (5b). The Corner is a bulging arête with no resting points and is a real test of endurance, a very satisfying move left just below the top makes the effort all worthwhile.
The final highlight of the day was Unclimbed Wall (5b), which for all we know does remain unclimbed. A sheer smooth face with few good anythings. We all got to the top but agreed that we all took so long and spent so much time dangling on the rope recovering strength that it couldn’t really count.
The rocks weren’t busy, the sun was shining and other climbers were friendly. We shared ropes and luncheon with teams from London, Lithuania and Russia. All in all a great day out. Not everyone’s cup of tea, but as far as I am concerned a bottle of champagne for Harrison’s please.
Jeremy 18th Oct.
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