Madam’s Final Meanderings
So long and thanks for all the ghoti 1,2
I started writing this preamble back in June for it to go in the last newsletter. That was an edition that never got to hit the mean streets of Ipswich and I do think it’s a bit sad that so many of us get out and about and never have time to put pen to paper and share our adventures.
WHAT is this life if, full of care,
We have no time to stand and stare?—
No time to stand beneath the boughs,
And stare as long as sheep and cows:
With one thing and another for me the climbing season did not get off to a good start. At the Beginners’ meet I backed off the start of Little Ernie and ended up leading a green, slimy chimney (the boyfriend would be so proud!). I then, for some unaccountable reason found myself halfway up Recess Wall, stuck under a roof and struggling to make the move. My helmet kept banging on the roof making me feel more and more claustrophobic and insecure. I backed off got cams and was soon installed once again under the roof, with the helmet still crashing into it and blocking out all other noise. I could see the sequence and where the foot needed to go but I was at full stretch and every time I put my foot up my grip on the hand holds was becoming more and more tenuous. I could not do the move. I backed off again and was almost crying with frustration! A better day was had on the Sunday but as I updated my logbook I realised that in August 1997 I had led that very same route! How? The only conclusion is that I was more flexible then as I am pretty sure that I was not any taller. Mind you, I must have been going well that day as I led another VDiff called Two Tier Climb, which I seem to remember was a bit of a struggle at the top. Those of you who study your guidebooks closely will know that Two Tier Climb was upgraded to VS 5a a few years ago with the comment; “Another Stanage sandbag which was graded VDiff for 30 years”.
Things did improve however and Andy and I have written about our big Classic Tick Day out. Then things went downhill as I commenced a 7-week grand tour of BT telephone exchanges and a new hotel every night. Though it has to be said that I can pack a suitcase very quickly now! Once this project was out of the way the coaching trip to Turkey loomed large and it occurred to me that I really needed to get out on rock unless I planned on being class duffer and not being able to climb anything under the gaze of my hero Mr McClure. A week’s “intensive” training at Horseshoe Quarry was planned. Exhausted as I still was from all the travelling, an intensive day for me was in the region of five leads. However, the situation did improve and before Turkey I’d got my red-point grade back to F6a.
The coaching trip was fantastic and my scepticism about how well it would translate to my trad grade proved to be totally groundless. Further my on-sight grade has increased to F6a which was a bogey grade for me for quite some time and red-pointing is now at F6b. Improvements in trad leading have been noticeable as my leading head seems to be much more in gear than it has been over the last two years. Although soloing a Severe one day and lobbing off a Severe the following day is probably not a prime example, but nevertheless I’m looking forward to a good season next year.
So in closing I’d like to say thanks to everyone who has supported the club trips during the year, especially those who have willingly and cheerfully given up their time to help with the Beginners’ tips.
It has been a great pleasure to serve as your President and I hope you will all continue to give the same support to your new President.
It’s been emotional!
NO LONGER La Pres 😉
1 Taken from the title of the fourth in the Hitchhikers’ Trilogy So long and thanks for all the fish, by the late, great Douglas Adams
2Ghoti is a constructed example used to illustrate irregularities in English spelling. It is a respelling of the word fish, and like fish is pronounced /ˈfɪʃ/. It has, gh, pronounced /f/
as in tough /tʌf/; o, pronounced /ɪ/ as in women /ˈwɪmɪn/; and ti, pronounced /ʃ/ as in nation /ˈneɪʃən/. The first known published reference is in 1874, citing an 1855 letter that credits ghoti to one William Ollier (born 1824). Ghoti is often cited to support English spelling reform, and is often attributed to George Bernard Shaw a supporter of this cause. However, a biography of Shaw attributes it instead to an anonymous spelling reformer. [Source: Wikipedia]
The New President’s Prattle
Wotcha folks, I am back. Gawd help us. I have decided to make the Caretaker Manager position as IMC President more permanent. At least for another year that is. I must thank Caroline for her sterling efforts over the past couple of years, including a fine role in stitching me up to be President for another year!
As you will be aware from the spate of resignations just over a month ago there were a number of posts up for new blood so this year’s AGM was always going to prove a little “interesting”, though not in the climbing sense of the word. Apart from the President’s position, which has
already been mentioned, Louise had to give up the Secretary’s role as she did not have the time to give the position the attention that she felt it required and Dave Coupe has stepped in to take over the job (good man, I have not forgotten that I owe you a beer!). Both Guy and
Simon wanted to give up the Newsletter Editor and Webmaster roles respectively. In the end a solution was found whereby Simon was to continue as Webmaster but handed over the “technical aspects” of putting together the Newsletter to Adrian Fagg who is to work with Caroline Goldsworthy (Apostrophe police) in putting together the Newsletter. If you get that please explain it to me in simple English!
I wish to thank all the “retiring” officers for their hard work over the past year (several years in both Simon’s and Guy’s cases). I know how much time they all put in to keep the club and the Newsletter going.
One more thing to mention is that the IMC Slideshows (cum socials) have been resurrected. They will be held at the Lloyd’s Tavern on the traditional third Thursday of the month (during winter) with the first one being held on the 15th January (subject matter to be decided). I have asked if the music can be turned down (those who were at the AGM will know what I mean).
All that remains to say is enjoy the remainder of this year and, as I am already, look forward to the winter meets in the New Year.
Take care on the hill.
See you soon.
As this will be my last Erratum I really would like to take this opportunity to put into print my heartfelt thanks to all the contributors over the last four years – you have been fantastic. I hope that the membership will continue the good work, perhaps even increasing it, for the new incumbent.
I have had a great time and felt privileged to be the first to read all the articles as they came in.
I’m sure that this issue will, as ever, entertain and inspire you; there’s good stuff herein.
I will leave the setting of a deadline to the new Editor but I would hope to read about ice axes being swung and extreme temperatures survived when the next issue hits my e-doormat.
Once again, a big “thank you” to all who have helped to make the newsletter what it is.
Name that Route
A bumper crop of routes for you to identify from Guy’s cryptic photos
Route 1 = The File, VS 4c
Route 2 = Prudence, HVS 5b
Route 3 = The Rasp, E2 5b
Route 4 = Altar Crack, Rivelin, VS 4c
This Newsletter’s articles can be seen on separate webpages by clicking the following links. It’s a
bumper crop, with tales of daring do from far and wide.
Did you know that most of the articles that have previously appeared in the IMC newsletter can be read online? Find them listed in the Articles Index. By the way, these can now be read by anyone on the internet – not just members of the IMC. So tell your friends and family.
I’ve been asked to give some more info about the IMC website’s
new photo gallery. The important change is that you can upload
your photos to this gallery so that they instantly appear on the
IMC webpages, and you can give each photo a title and add some
descriptive text. Go to http://www.ipswich-m-c.co.uk/gallery/.
To use the gallery the first thing you need to do is open
the gallery page and register by clicking the link in its top
right corner. You only need to do this once. I know it’s a bind
but it’s a necessary evil to prevent malicious people from
outside the club from posting nasty pictures (of course it won’t
stop malicious people from inside the club from doing that – but
if you do I’ll know who you are!). As soon as I get your email
I’ll add you to the list of people who can post to the photo
The gallery is fairly intuitive to use, but if you need help
click the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) link on the gallery
page (top-right) or click here. When viewing photos in the
gallery you can give them a star rating and can write comments.
Keep ’em clean please! Only members can leave comments but
anyone can vote. That reminds me, the gallery is open for
viewing by the general public. You can create your own album in
the gallery, and if you wish you can set a password or make it
viewable only by other members of the IMC. You can give each
photo a title and add some descriptive text. Have a play and
Despite what some people have said, the photos you contribute
are stored on the IMC web server (not an external site like
Flikr) which allows them to be used on multiple pages throughout
the IMC website. For example your photo may appear in the
montage on the homepage, or indeed it may appear here…
I put this new facility in place hoping that it will keep the
photo album fresh. I hope you find it useful. The IMC webserver
has a capacity of 250 MB, which is currently about half
full. To stop us filling this up in a trice with your huge high
resolution photos I’ve restricted the size of photos that can be
uploaded to 200 kB. Images for viewing on a website really don’t
need to be any bigger than that. If you have any problems with
this, or anything else feel free to contact me. I look forward to seeing the gallery used, and to viewing your wonderful photos.
Simon – IMC Webmaster
There were quite a few changes in line up at our last AGM. You can see who’s now on the
committee at the contacts page, which
includes a description of each of the committee roles.
See our Club Meets page for up-to-date details about
meetings and events that are currently planned by the Ipswich Mountaineering Club
This scheduled list is suggested as a framework for meets in the coming
months and to help get dates into your diaries; however, we are looking
for volunteers to co-ordinate some of the events and for ideas of where
people would like to go. Please contact the meets
coordinator if you are interested in helping to organise any of the
above or to make suggestions for future meets.
A quick reminder regarding attendance: Please note that anyone
attending an official Ipswich Mountaineering Club meet must be a
member of the Ipswich Mountaineering Club or some other BMC
affiliated club. A “meet” being defined as any trip advertised on
the website or newsletter or announced/advertised via the e-mail
facility (i.e. email@example.com).