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Articles from the old IMC website

April Peak Performance

Another Impromptu IMC Posse descends on the Peak District

Guy Reid – April 2009

Take a free weekend and some free people, add a couple of days of reasonable
(although good is better if you can get it) weather and spice with conversation
to your palate, ice with a thick layer of routes to tickle your fancy and there
you have it – the recipe for a great climbing trip.

I began with “a trip out of a hat”, Mike B followed with “ you beat me to it”;
Martin said he could fire up ‘The Beast’ but a seat in a car would be preferable
and Clare S confirmed she’d be outside Outside in Hathersage at 9am on Saturday
morning. Lastly Eddie from Bury chipped in that he’d join us just for the day
and agreed to find us at the crag.

I picked up Martin at 1pm on Friday and knowing that Paul McC had already written
the tune we started off on our long and winding road.

Bar Hill wasn’t too bad but we were warned about long delays from J25 to J29 on
M1 and at 25, noticing the traffic slowing dramatically, we drifted off into the
hinterlands; our original intention of a couple of routes at Birchen before bed
turned into a dash of limestone and we purred toward Wildcat. Along the way we
overheated but with Martin “The Mechanic” Stevens on hand we discovered the
fault, reconnected the fan and despite losing a looong half hour still reached
Matlock Bath in time to enjoy Lynx (HS4b, 4b **) before heading on to Hardhurst
and a well-earned cup of tea.

Saturday morning 9am and outside Outside there was Clare – and by half past we
were standing under Heather Crack VS 4c ** with me thinking, “oh, that’s steeper
than I remember”.

And so the day began.

In no particular order (because I can’t remember names so think yourselves lucky
you’ve got them at all)

  • Lancashire Wall VS5a *
  • Green Wall VS4b *
  • Manchester Buttress HS4b ***
  • Gargoyle Buttress VS4b **
  • Black Hawk HS4c **
  • Black Hawk Hell Crack S4a ***
  • Capstone chimney Diff *

I backed off Z Crack VS4c * feeling bruised and exhausted but knowing that I
would be back there one day; fitter, stronger and ready for another tussle. And
I racked up for, and then scuttled away from, Grotto Wall HVS4c and In Earnest
HVS5a each time thinking that a route with some . . . any . . .gear in sight
would be preferable.

Mid-morning Eddie found us and enjoyed a few routes before he headed off at about
4pm just as we came across Des (a locum surgeon who had been at Ipswich Hospital
and climbed with us at Copleston for a few months earlier this year).

The day ended atop Green Wall at about 7.30 with an agreement that I would text
Des Sunday’s destination – when I knew it.

Returning to the hullabaloo at Hardhurst was quite depressing after such an
excellent day, but the din did eventually die down.

Sunday dawned bright, clear and crisp, the sun sparkling off the morning frost.
By 9 the sun was high, the frost had melted, my tent was down and Clare and I
were in the car heading to Baslow. Where? You say. Yes, Baslow.

Martin had waxed lyrical about it the previous evening so a decision had been
made.

As we pulled into the parking bays below Curbar Des pulled up and together the
three of us went exploring.

Baslow could best be described as a string of small buttresses that have to be
accessed individually by walking along the top of the crag and dropping down;
there is no real path along the bottom. The routes are generally short. We had
decided to head for the far end and then work back toward the car during the
day.

The crag is west facing and gets the afternoon sun, at the far end we dropped
down out of glorious sunshine into cold shade. Not an inspiring start I’m
afraid.

We saw a nice line, Larceny HVS5a, but decided to warm up on something easier and
come back after. Rough Wall Climb VS4c* at 6m is more like a boulder problem and
as such has very little gear though Des’s WC Zero 5 gave me the confidence to
move on up. Interesting, but over all too quickly. Back at the bottom, in the
shade and cold, we went back to Larceny, which at 12m was more like a climb. I
personally enjoyed it though Clare was not so sure – her fingers too cold to
feel the holds.

A change of venue was needed so we found Martin and Mike, made arrangements for
later and by noon, having managed to park in a packed Surprise View car park we
were in a warm, sun-dappled, sylvan glade – a virtually empty Lawrencefield.

Tyrone (anything between VS4c and HVS5a) warmed us up and then Excalibur VS4c***
rounded the day, and the weekend, off with a pump in our forearms and a smile on
our faces.

Clare, Des and I smiled, shook hands and drifted off following our own paths
homeward. Mine took me to a pint of coffee and a slab of flapjack at Outside in
Calver, and tales from Martin and Mike about their day at Baslow (great by all
accounts). And from there Martin and I hit the road for Suffolk leaving Mike to
browse in Outside for a while before he too headed South.

Lost in the Crowd

or route finding on a popular V Diff

My very first proper rock climb was Grooved Arête on Tryfan. My first lead had
been a supervised pitch two on that same climb. This Easter, I returned with
Martin’s mate, Dave. Dave’s only ever been to North Wales
once before, and that was the scene of an off-route and wet epic with me on the
nearby Sub Cneifion Rib. So now was a chance to do a classic route, with no
worries about route finding. We converged on the start of the route exactly as
two other teams arrived. Thankfully, we got away second in the queue, me leading
the first pitch. At the top of the first section, I looked at a crack continuing
straight up, but decided it was harder than the grade of the climb, and craftily
placed a friend in it before stepping left to find the polish on the rib. Dave,
with that one lonely placement as a guide, and no useful advice from his belayer
climbed said crack direct, in, it has to be said, good style.

The first pair up had gone straight up on the next pitch, only stepping to the
left near the top. The guide book and my memory told me that this wasn’t the
route, that in fact one should step directly into the groove in the rib to the
left. I only worked this out after Dave had made some progress off route, so he
made an awkward traverse left, gaining the rib with a very bold step from the
top of a pinnacle. Back on route, I led the remaining pitch before the path
across to the second half of the climb. At about this point, the party behind
lost touch with us, apparently a lack of confidence overcame the girl leading
the second pitch, as we later heard.

At this point, Dave was feeling rather cold, the sun having stayed hidden so
far, so I led the next pitch up the rib towards the ‘haven’. Now, this is where
the experience climber does a little arithmetic, since pitches on these classic
routes are often run together, as with first two pitches of the climb, for
example. So, the rib leads up one 90 foot pitch, to a block belay, followed by
another 120 foot pitch crossing a groove near the top to another grooved rib
before finally arriving at the haven. My rope being a mere 160 foot, I couldn’t
run these pitches together. After at most 50 feet of climbing, I came to a
plausible belay, but clearly this wasn’t it, so I carried on up the rib. As it
became clear that a) I’d climbed a lot more than 90 feet, and b) the rib was
getting harder, with no obvious holds above, I was forced to cross into the
groove on the left. A bit more progress, without anything resembling a decent
stance and things were starting to look pretty serious. Steep blank rock barred
all upwards progress. A delicate traverse back right to the arête showed nothing
but vertical featureless rock.

Looking back across the groove to the left, I spotted polish below me on the left
hand rib. Carefully, I eased my way back and rejoined the route with palpable
relief. Another few feet and I was able to belay comfortably.

My curious inability to keep to the polish on these classic routes has had me
wandering on previous occasions. I made a mental note to concentrate better in
future as I belayed Dave up to the stance, noticing the quite considerable rope
drag on the way. As it turned out, I’d used nearly a full rope length on that
pitch, so we deduced that Dave had about another 60 feet of climbing to reach
the haven. Dave set off, with strict instructions to ‘follow the polish’. He
quickly disappeared from view, somewhere over the buttress above my head. Soon,
another chap arrived, grunting as he hauled his rope up against what sounded
like a lot of drag. Still no news from above, as that pair got themselves
settled on an adjacent stance. We waited a bit. The very competent woman who’d
followed her husband up the previous pitch mentioned that this was, in fact, the
haven, and that the Ogwen guidebook was definitively wrong. “Ah”, I said. before
trying to communicate this important information to Dave, unsuccessfully.

Above the haven is a steep wall, surmounted by an exposed slab, which is normally
climbed diagonally up to the top right corner – the Knight’s Move. When,
eventually, Dave brought me up to his stance, I found him in a hanging belay at
the top left corner of the slab. I carefully traversed across to the hidden
niche where he would have been if only he’d realised what pitch he was on, and
brought him back to the route. In the meantime, the couple following us had come
through and combining with the next pitch, overtaken us. We were the second pair
that they’d overtaken, the pair immediately behind us at the start being the
first! Dave feeling the cold quite badly at this stage, I led the last pitch
out, only to be followed, somewhat rudely I felt, by another climber who’d
decided to climb on past Dave for reasons that weren’t clear to me at all. I
then brought Dave up whom had some difficulty, getting past the above mentioned
rope.

It was just another enjoyable day on a Welsh multi-pitch V Diff.

Lakes Feb 09 – Or – My first winter lead

The usual trudge up the A14 and M6 after work on Friday evening, saw us arrive at
The Brotherswater Inn just as last orders had sounded. Luckily, Steve & Martin
had set off about an hour beforehand so they purchased a small libation whilst
I, Christina and Joe threw a few bags into the bunkhouse. Pete & Lou arrived
about 45 minutes later and the posse was complete. Some discussion ensued as to
possible venues for the next day’s action. Well, I say discussion but in truth
we were more than a little reliant on Steve & Martin for suitable, in
“condition” routes. After all, I had a shiny new pair of Scarpa Charmoz boots to
put through their paces!

The view down the valley on Saturday morning, showed signs of promise for a gully
or two in winter conditions, so 5 of us set off for Patterdale and the walk in
to Tarn and Falcon crags. After a couple of hours walking, we arrived at the
foot of the slope below Dollywagon Gully (on Dollywagon Pike funnily enough!).
The new boots were doing marvellously – comfortable, easy to walk in and
crucially, no blister hot-spots.

Dollywagon GullyDollywagon Gully

Time for a quick bite to eat before gearing up ready for my first potential
winter lead! Steve and Joe set off apace whilst Martin hung back with me and
Christina for the first pitch, imbuing me with confidence for this new game. The
unfortunate traffic jam at the boulder choke soon cleared and Martin let us off
the leash and reverted to Plan A by teaming up with Steve and Joe. So this was
it – second time in crampons ever and about to embark on, what I later found out
to be, a grade II/III winter gully!! A couple of pitches of easy angled snow
(one of which Christina soloed with a rope!) and now it all starts to get a bit
more serious. One problem is that C n me are running with a 35m rope so we end
up belaying in some rather uncomfortable, calf-burning spots – e.g. part way up
to the first pitch that had any real ice – I get to place ice screws! Another
fantastic pitch with some proper ice led to a belay stance where Steve had
kindly left a couple of warthog anchors for me to clip (more gear I had not used
before!). By this time the calves are really stinging, but instead of swapping
the belay with Christina and leading the final frozen turf pitch, I ask
Christina to lead on through (well, solo really as she didn’t have sufficient
gear to protect it!). Judging by the glowering looks and the sotto voce
grumbling, she also was feeling somewhat fatigued! All’s well that ends well
however, she made it successfully to the top and utilised another of Steve’s
belay stances consisting of 1 deadman, a snow seat and a sling connected to an
ice axe buried in snow, to belay me to the finish. Fantastic!

Crikey! Quarter to four. How did it get that late!?! As the other chaps had been
standing around in the wind and the cloud for a while, we only had time to throw
a sandwich and some warm soup down our throats before packing up and walking
off. Time didn’t allow for a summit of Dollywagon Pike either – but the view
would have been non-existent thanks to low cloud! The walk off was a 2 hour
trudge, but now I know I can do a full day in the new boots, so …..”Bring It
On!”

Christina and I had a romantic bowl of pasta Bolognese followed by white
chocolate covered raspberries in the bunkhouse (it was Valentine’s day
remember!). Steve, Martin & Joe went to the pub to eat.

Pete & Lou had a good walk up on the snowy/icy tops with most of the day spent
wearing crampons by all accounts. They ate in the tent, then joined us in The
Brotherswater Inn. Plenty of talking done in the pub that evening, but not much
planning for Sunday!

Sunday dawned much milder than Saturday and the snowline was visibly higher. The
previous day’s activities had taken their toll on us all (with the exception of
Joe I think!). This, coupled with the fact that C & I needed to be back in Eye
to collect Mont by 8pm, meant a short walk in 3 season boots. We opted for a
wander up to Place Fell (above Patterdale) which turned out just right as the
cloud lifted as we neared the summit and we were back at the car by 1.30pm.

P & L had a pleasant walk up to Hayswater and beyond before departing for home.

All in all a great weekend with obvious highlights for yours truly.

A Snowdonia New Year – Christina’s Account

One of two accounts of the IMC New Year trip

We drove to N Wales on Wednesday at 6 am and arrived about 12 pm, pitched the tent at a pub called the Snowdon Inn (about 1 mile from Jesse James bunkhouse).  We were the only campers in the field but I think there were some other people in vans on the road – sort of alternative types who probably live in the vans all year round and were visiting the pub for New Year.  We headed up to Pen-y-Pas at 3pm and decided to start up the Miners Track to see if we could bump into Sheila, Martin Stevens and Mike Bayley who were doing the Snowdon Horseshoe.  Steve C had texted us saying what they were upto.  We met up with them at about 5 pm back at Pen-y-Pas .  Quick chat and then back to the campsite to eat and organise Mont before heading to the bunkhouse for New Year socialising.  I was des driver so half a glass of mulled wine was my lot.  Poor Mont had to stay in the car as “No dogs” policy at JJ.  Stayed up until 1 am then headed back to a very frozen, very ‘iced up on the inside’ Vaude!!  Brrrhhh.

Difficult to get out of down sleeping bag on Thursday morning – more bbbrrrhhhh…..  Took off multiple layers of clothing and changed into scrambling gear.  No facilities at campsite as all frozen solid so texted Steve that we were on our way to the bunkhouse.  Passed Martin and Mike’s cars enroute so screeched to a halt and had hurried conflabs by the side of the road – we took too long to get going and they were coming to the campsite to find us.  Anyway eventually headed off to Snowdon Ranger in 3 cars.  We had decided to do Sentries Ridge on Mynydd Mawr to the West of Snowdon – it’s a *** Grade 3 scramble but we’re still not sure whether we did it or not as a) the route description didn’t match and b) it was about VDiff!

Poor Ian had the Mont and took the easy way up – we joined him about 2 ½ hrs later!  We were in 2 groups of 3: Sheila, Martin Stevens andMike B; Martin H, me and Steve C.  Pretty hard scrambling, especially in mountaineering boots and with a big rucksack.  However, the weather was superb so lots of brilliant photos.  Lovely views at the top over lunch.  Then we headed back down in daylight and off to Pete’s Eats for tea and apple pie for Martin H, which took about 45 mins to come – they cocked up the numbering system and we had to ask them 4 times before he finally got it – think maybe Pete was on holiday and had the hired help in!!  Ian and I picked up a new wall climbing rope – 30 m – for £40 at V12.  Bargain!

Due to our frozen facilities, evenings in JJ were de-rigueur with alternating des’s.  Water containers were filled and kept in the car overnight with gas bottles to insulate them from the elements!

On Friday Steve C and Martin did the Idwal stream (II/IIIish water ice) and walked off via Glyder Fawr (or is it Fach) and Gribin – and Steve fell out with his plastics again.  Ian and I drove to the Watkins path parking area and walked up Yr Aran – about 747 m.

Quite an easy day as I was sporting a blister on my heel.  Back wearing walking boots, I was fine.  Monty enjoyed the walk and it was fairly gentle after the previous days’ exertions.  The weather was still clear and bright but very cold as the wind had got up a bit. We have a great photo of horizontal Labrador ears, totally wind powered :o)  As it was an early finish for us, we decided to go for tea at the Pen-y-Gwryd pub (you know the one at the bottom of the hill as you turn right up to Pen-y-Pas from Capel?  Its all been done up inside but pretty cosy and they still have the old Everest photos and gear on display.

Mike B, Martin S and Sheila did Crib Lem (aka Llech Ddu Spur) a *** Grade 1 scramble starting from the Bethesda area and finishing at the summit of Carnedd Dafydd, ticking Carnedd Llewellyn (and possibly other peaks) whilst up on the top.

Then on Sat am Mike B left (slight sore throat in evidence courtesy of Mr Hore) and the rest of us went to Y Garn – the Jesse’s team did the East ridge (Grade 2 – excellent) whilst we walked up with Mont. We then all walked along the ridge to Mynydd Perfedd. Sheila, Martin S and Steve C then split off to walk back to Jesse’s whilst Ian, Martin and myself went back to the cars, finding a great little traversing path not marked on the map.

Looking West from Y Garn

Looking West from Y Garn

On Sunday everyone was up early for a quick departure via the fleshpots of Betws – back by 4ish.  Second bargain of the trip, we got some cheap runners at Rock Bottom Cotswold to go with the rope!

North Wales January 2009

Snowdonia in the Snow

The IMC go to North Wales again

Preparation for the trip had consisted of occasionally going to the gym, in the hope of getting back on an even par with Martin Steven’s uphill pace. I also spent time fitting my crampons to my shiny new B3s and packing a selection of ice axes to cover all eventualities. Precisely why I did this isn’t clear, as the snow was almost all fresh in the last two days, the previous weekend’s thaw and rain having stripped most of the older accumulations. This I knew, but despite all the evidence that this was going to be a complete washout, I stuck with my original plan of leaving Ipswich unreasonably early on the Friday morning.

Martin and I arrived in Capel Curig soon after nine O’clock and settled down to the serious business of drinking tea while waiting to rendezvous with Mervyn, having got our arrangement slightly confused on the way. So, after the usual IMC faff, we three parked at the bottom of the Watkin path in Nantgwynant and set out in the general direction of Snowdon just before lunchtime. Yr Aran was the first snowy target, which at its lowly altitude below the cloud base, gave us good views before we descended to the bwlch and started up the south ridge of Snowdon, on generally good snow, especially considering how fresh it was. At about 950m on the Bwlch Main, a bit short of the summit, once I’d breathlessly caught up to the point where Martin was waiting patiently with Mervyn, he pointed out that we were running out of time, so we retraced our steps, mountaineering decision made. Dropping below the cloud, we were treated to views of hillsides lit by the setting sun. My crampons had remained safely in the rucksack all day, as is traditional.

A short drive and were at the bunkhouse under Tryfan, to find Mick and Heather already ensconced and providing tea. Soon Eddie arrived having walked the long way via Glyder Fach. Everyone else drifted in over the course of the evening.

We planned to walk the southern circuit of the Carneddau on the Saturday, estimating that we’d need a full day and to not try to be too ambitious. An alpine start being called for, we set off at the crack of nine O’clock, with Eddie added to the party. After a few minutes walking, Mervyn and I jogged back to the hut to collect his ice axe from my car. The summit of Pen yr Ole Wen came and went and came again, as Martin and I strode off in a direction diametrically opposed to that intended, only to be called back after a couple of hundred metres. The summit of Carnedd Dafydd soon arrived, rather sooner for Martin than the rest of us. Soon, views were revealed by the retreating clouds and we realised that this was turning out to be an almost perfect winter walking day. Snow conditions were close to ideal, with some patches of wind-scoured hard snow on the slog up to Carnedd Llywelyn. These were sufficiently easy-angled and avoidable to keep the crampons in the rucksack, continuing to provide additional ballast, as does most winter equipment most of the time.

Having arrived at the summit, we realised that we were well ahead of our realistic schedule, and could easily have included Yr Ellen in the itinerary for the day. Strangely, nobody was keen to descend and then re-ascend Carnedd Llywelyn, so we carried on with the circuit, Martin and the others glissading to a greater or lesser extent down the lee side, while I trudged down after them. A short break above the infamous Craig yr Isfa and down a short scramble to Bwlch Eryl Farchog and up another pleasantly easy scramble to Pen yr Helgi Du and a long easy walk down the ridge got us eventually below the snow line.


On the Carneddau

Craig Yr Isfa
On the Carneddau (click on any picture for larger image) Craig Yr Isfa

Carnedd Llywelyn from Helgi Du
Carnedd Llywelyn from Helgi Du

We had finished earlier than expected and were soon drinking tea in the bunkhouse, while the other parties were safely returning from various routes, including the Bochlwyd horseshoe bisected by ascents of Main Gully in imperfect but full-on winter conditions.

That evening, we were treated to a slideshow of the days exploits on a laptop, with at least half a dozen contributors. The IMC are a sophisticated bunch, so as well as coming equipped with the latest technology, we also partook of Port and Cheese in an effort to maintain standards.

Sunday dawned with wind and rain, but optimism prevailed and everyone set out for one last day of adventure. The Cneifion Arête was mentioned as a target of at least some of the party. Martin, Mervyn and I set off for Moel Siabod via the Daear Ddu ridge, which gave a very pleasant easy scramble at around the snowline and a short steep slog directly up to the summit. We arrived just in time for the cloud to lift and reveal more views. I have to say that although it’s not the most attractive mountain seen from a distance, I thought it a very nice walk and was glad that I’d done it for the first time. It’s not usually high on the agenda, but I later noticed that it’s equal 120th on the list of most prominent British peaks and seventh in Wales. Snow conditions were again good, with a bit more of a breeze than previously. Crampons remained unused, of course. We walked off down the usual ascent route and drove in convoy to Betws y Coed, which was astonishingly busy I thought, and where another cup of tea was had prior to driving home.


Carneddau from Moel Siabod
Carneddau from Moel Siabod

Thanks to David Coupe for a well organised trip.

Early Snow in Mid Wales

A December IMC trip finds winter conditions against all expectation

Steve Culverhouse – December 2008

Despite Johnboy’s minor car issues (apparently the Pug became a low-rider when the suspension went bang on Friday morning), we met up successfully at Bury and made it to the very plush bunkhouse (Duvets, en-suite facilities!) in time for last orders in the Slaughtered Lamb Cross Foxes (though why they were cross was never clear).

After a brief guidebook discussion the whole party decided on Cyfrwy Arête on Cader Idris and by 8.30(!) we were on our way. An hour or so pull up the hillside leads to the foot of the Arête which is a striking feature on the horizon. Johnboy and Martin leapt into the lead and led us up 6 pitches and then a section of moving together to reach the summit plateau. A good route all the way including one “that can’t be Diff!” pitch which turned out to be jugs all the way (steep though!). The front parties made a quick nip to the summit and met up with the others to make the descent back down the tourist path. Martin, with shoulder only just recovering was having more trouble on the descent than the ascent and took a couple of tumbles – but thankfully no re-dislocations. A great day out with blue skies all day.

After a jolly evening in the bunkhouse Martin talked us into a look at winter climbing on Snowdon on the grounds that there was snow lying above 800m on Cader. I have to admit to being a bit dubious and thinking that if it was in nick then it would be heaving. Anyway, an even earlier start was decided on and by 7.30 we were out of the bunkhouse and on our way, with the temperature showing as -4.

We route-marched our way up the Miners’ track to the base of the NE face in increasingly snowy conditions and it became clear that the whole face was ‘in’ and in excellent nick. With Martin in the lead we all romped up the classic Central Trinity (I/II) in classic IMC fashion (i.e. with stacks of rock gear, ice gear and ropes, all left in the rucksacks for extra training) topping out just 50m away from the summit. There was only one other person on the route too (and he was behind us). A quick, and much appreciated, lunch break in the lee of the new caff and the descent was being discussed. Johnboy, Ian and I were immediately keen on Crib Goch whilst the others were for taking the Pyg track back. Eddie, Andy & Martin agreed that they were OK to wait for us at the car park whilst we did Crib Goch so we rapidly packed up and headed off as quick as we could. Crib Goch was in fantastic winter condition and Ian, showing no sign it was his first outing in crampons, led us across the ridge at a gallop and we made it back to Pen y Pass for a cuppa only a few minutes behind the others. An absolutely brilliant day out!





On Central Trinity, Snowdon

New Year in Snowdonia

Martin’s account of the IMC New Year Trip

Martin Stevens – January 2009

Tuesday 30th December 2008

A team of Martin Hore, Steve Culverhouse, Sheila Norman, Mike Bayley and I gathered at Jesse James’ bunkhouse on the evening of Tuesday 30th and settled in. Guidebooks were consulted, plans made and forecast checked. It was certainly cold and clear during the night.

Wednesday 31st December 2008

A reasonably early start on Wednesday saw Martin H. and Steve head off to Cwm Glas for some kind of ice-adventure whilst Sheila, Mike and I packed for a go at the Snowdon Horseshoe. The merits of walking axes and crampons were considered and fitting your crampons to your boots before setting off proved challenging for Mike but fortunately a spare pair were available that could be made to fit. Eventually, however, we made a departure for Pen-y-Pass, having heard from Ian Thurgood and Christina Ennis (and Monty) that, ‘there’s lots and lots of fog on the motorways, so we might be later than anticipated’.

Off to Pen-y-Pass and up the PYG Track. Brilliant conditions – an almost cloudless blue sky, any mud firmly frozen solid and very little wind. We enjoyed a leisurely scramble over Crib Goch, taking in all the pinnacles and the splendid views. A pause before Garnedd Ugain and its easy scramble and then the grind up to a very busy Snowdon summit. The descent down to the col between Snowdon and Lliwedd proved as ever an unpleasant affair but the excellent easy scrambling over Lliwedd made up for that. The descent from Lliwedd was in the shade and decidedly colder than it had been on the sun on the ridge. Back on to the Miners Track at Llyn Llydaw and Mike spots ‘a tall man, a short woman with an ENORMOUS rucksack and a dog’ and suggests that could be Ian, Christina and Monty. We walked quickly to try to catch them but to no avail and at the carpark Mike was proved right.

Back to the bunkhouse via shopping in Llanberis for us, off to their campsite for Ian & Christina. With the falling light temperatures quickly dropped and by the time we got to the bunkhouse it was decidedly ‘blurry cold!’.

A very jolly evening was had, except by Monty who had to stay in the car. Port and cheese was served and Martin H’s laptop was pressed into service for an impromptu slideshow of the day’s digital pictures.

Thursday 1st January 2009

Very cold overnight but a super days weather ahead. We all tackle Sentries Ridge And Continuation, a Grade 2/3 *** scramble on Mynydd Mawr to the West of Snowdon. Excellent cloudless blue skies and a heavy frost but no breeze and the sunshine pleasantly warm. An easy woodland walk-in (during which we obeyed the roadside sign not to feed the bears) led to a hillside traverse with some wall and fence hopping before a scree-traverse to the base of the buttress. Ian and Monty chose an easier line to the summit, Steve, Martin H. and Christina made up one rope and Mike, Sheila and I another. Good, exposed scrambling on some suspect rock (various cries of ‘BELOW!’ at various points as loose bits detached, and one of ‘EEEK! Fuggit!’ as Christina proved that volume is not necessarily directly related to size when she fell off. Very pleasant exposure and a couple of tricky bits, some good pinnacles and a section of unprotected loose horrors, and a lot of fine ridge work and we were at the summit. An easy walk off and back to the bunkhouse for tea and cake – or back to a frozen tent for the campers and a splendid day out complete.

Approaching Sentries Ridge Approaching Sentries Ridge
Approaching Sentries Ridge On Sentries Ridge

 

A jolly evening with port and cheese and another impromptu slideshow.

Friday 2nd January 2009

The early start thing proving habit forming, we made another early start. Steve and Martin H. headed off in search of more ice, Ian and Christina went walking to the west of Snowdon and Mike, Sheila and I drove to Bethesda to tackle Crib Lem, a Grade 1 *** scramble. Not such fine conditions – windier, cloudier and although the air temperature was higher it felt much colder.

A leisurely walk in with Mike tackling the map-reading. A drinks pause and then up onto Crib Lem. A slog up a steep scree path and then onto the ridge. Good scrambling over pinnacles with some of the more challenging bits avoidable. Up onto the Carnedd Dafydd ridge and onto the Carnedd Dafydd for a spot of lunch in the ice-rimed shelter hoping for a view should the clouds break. We then backtracked a bit before walking up Carnedd Llywelyn and onto Foel Grach in thick cloud and a strong crosswind. A steep descent took us on a bearing off the top and right on target to our intended checkpoint before hitting the valley floor and the walk back to the car. Fortunately the ground was frozen hard or it would have been an unpleasant mud-fest. Unfortunately we had to consider a stream crossing, but the risk of iced boulders and the amount of water in the stream made crossing impractical so we took a longer way back than perhaps we’d have liked although we still got back without needing to resort to a head torch.

Another jolly evening featuring the never-ending supply of port and cheeses and another slideshow.

Saturday 3rd January 2009

Another early start – don’t these people understand the idea of a lie-in? Mike had picked up a cold and very sore throat so decides to head home straight after breakfast.

Ian, Christina and Monty decide to walk up Y Garn whilst the bunkhouse team have a go at Y Garn East Ridge, a Grade 2 ** scramble. More excellent conditions, blue skies, sunshine and everything frozen solid. Walking up from Ogwen Cottage we pause to wander carefully onto the froze Llyn Idwal before tackling the ridge. Grand scrambling with spells in the shade to let us relish being back in the sunshine again. Some exposed sections and a couple of places of difficulty but grand scrambling in a dramatic setting.

All too quickly we’re on the summit ridge and head up to Y Garn summit where we meet up with Ian & Christina and have some lunch. We walk on to Foel-goch where Ian, Christina and Martin H. choose to head back to Ogwen and the parked cars. Steve, Sheila and I continue to Carnedd y Filiast, pausing on the way to peer down Atlantic Slabs – it looks like there’s some excellent slab climbing to be had there. From the top of Carnedd y Filiast we take an off-path route aiming for the bunkhouse. Fortunately the ground is again like iron or this would have been a real test of boot waterproofing and sense of humour. It wasn’t a challenging walk back apart from finding footpaths (all fortunately frozen solid – it would have been a long session of wading through mud otherwise) in the failing light but it was interesting to see a different view of the area.

Back to the bunkhouse and well earned tea and cake.

Supper ensues, Ian and Christina joining us.

A last go at port and cheese and another slideshow.

Sunday 4th January 2009

Travel home, pausing at Betws-y-Coed in pursuit of new boots for Steve C – he left Ipswich with about 85 pairs and returned with more.

The Krugs head for Wales

Aiming for Mid Wales, Louise and Pete somehow end up in South Wales

Louise Krug – December 2008

The trip didn’t get off to the best of starts. We had planned to go with the rest of the IMC towards Cader Idris, camping rather than bunkhouse, but when Pete rang the campsite he discovered it was closed  – water-logged. So with the choice of risking a bunkhouse, or going somewhere else we decided to go to Brecon – after all I have not had a single cold or infection for six months now and I want to keep it that way!

When we arrived at Brecon, things deteriorated. I did the first lob of the weekend in the campsite, landing flat on my back in the mud with a huge bang on the back of the head.

When we woke up, things then got worse as we discovered out bread had been eaten by something in the night. There were just a few slices on either side of a big hole that could be rescued for the day. The weather however was good – cold, crisp and clear. The sky was a strange colour – blue – but on the whole we rather liked that.

We had decided to do a mountain bike ride from the campsite and things started well. The ground was hard with the frost but not icy. Then we reached the second stage of the route – this was described as “many paths but all heading the same way” with the un-written subtext “and none of them any good”.  The hillside was thawing and the route went across many muddy streams. Here there is a dilemma. The easiest and driest option – cycle through, is closely related to the hardest and wettest option – try and fail to cycle through. This meant there was a lot of tiptoeing around mud baths – occasionally with the bike on the shoulder.  Add into this the fact that these paths are winding through the gorse.  And not all paths are end to end paths. So at one point Pete was heard to ask “why are you pushing your bike through that gorse patch” to be told rather snappily “because that is the easiest way forward”. Stage 3 was somewhat easier. Then began the notorious stage 4 which was described as the hardest bike push in the book.  This was the scene of the second lob of the  weekend. One minute I was pushing the bike uphill; the next I was on my back – again – with the bike on top of me! Once untangled I discovered I was OK, but extremely annoyed – I wasn’t even riding the thing!. Pick up bike and head on up. At one point I had the bike balanced between shoulder and head as I needed my hands for climbing up. Yes, we went scrambling with the bikes. At last we reached the top. Good views and, more to the point,  nice soft grass to lie on.

Here we needed a planning session. It was billed as a 3hr ride. We had been going 3 hrs and we were only 1/4 of the way around. We decided to continue onto the furthest point and then come back via some small roads (missing out technical forest, which didn’t sound appealing in the muddy icy conditions, and the pony trekking mud bath). The next sections were much easier; we picked up a loaf of bread in a village and were well on our way back when lob 3 occurred. Pete was cycling down the single track road, saw a car heading towards him and hit the brakes. Since he was on black ice, this led to disaster. Pete left the bike spinning towards the oncoming car. He himself executed a neat 180 turn with flip to end up travelling backwards down the hill in a nice arc curving away to the safety of the side of the road.   After much faffing, all was discovered to be basically OK, and at long last we made it back to the campsite, and put a lot of effort into trying to clean the bikes in the dark. We have since discovered that we failed.

Pub, for nerve restorer, pain relief and an extra portion of chips to supplement the dinner. Took the bread to bed with us. This turned out to be a bad move because in the morning we discovered the beastie (smelt like a fox) ate through the tent to get to the bread. Circular hole. 10cm diameter around the join of the groundsheet to fly.

The next morning was also a good hard frost – more of that blue sky stuff,  the tent glistened like Christmas decorations, so still that we sat watching the shadow of steam rising from the tea.  We decided to go for a walk. This turned out to involve no lobbing – despite a good amount of ice around. Just up the hill, over the hill fort (descending the steep north side was done carefully!) along the ridge, well togged up against a bitter cold wind. The ground was frozen so the peat bog was easy; the descent was down gentle grass. A good piece of entertainment was to be had watching the anomalous behaviour of sheep. They were marching in formation – a line of sheep stretching over 1/2 km. After about 10 minutes the front broke so that we had 3 streams of sheep (reminded us of the start of Dad’s Army). A tad tedious having to walk round the hill and back up onto the ridge line, but all in all very good. Journey home tedious.

Lob of the year 2008

Can I first say how honoured I am to have been asked by our esteemed president to present the annual review of the year.

As most of you know I’ve been on leave from the IMC climbing scene this summer. So, by way of a reversal of the normal literary disclaimer, let me make it absolutely clear that while I’m happy to take the credit for what follows, any factual errors are entirely the responsibility of those who provided me with the information. (And many thanks indeed for all the contributions).

Now, no doubt you’d suppose, I’d present this in prose. But to be slightly perverse, I’m going to try it in verse…………

Actually this was an idea that came to me a couple of years ago. Referring to an episode that year on Gimmer Crag, the verse in question was entitled “Whom should we thank for the fun on Spring Bank?” It was going to start something like this:

“Whom should we thank
For the fun on Spring Bank,
But the man, if you please,
Who wears tights with no knees?”

Sadly the “fun on Spring Bank” has receded far into the club’s memory banks by now, as, hopefully, have Steve G’s tights. So this evening’s poetic improvisation is entitled rather more prosaically “The Ballad of 2008”.

What follows is doubtless replete with scurrilous scansion and reprehensible rhyme, and could well turn out to be a complete disaster. So here’s hoping that everyone’s suitably lubricated, and willing to give the benefit of doubt to a humble “Bard of Ipswich”.

Here goes – “The Ballad of 2008”

Friends! Set down your beers
And lend me your ears,
For I’ve tales to unfold
Of deeds daring and bold.

It’s the annual story
Of lost pride and glory,
Blind panic and fear.
Yes, it’s “lob of the year”

Let me start down in Dovedale.
Here’s rumoured a good tale
Of crumbling rock layers
And high-flying belayers.

It’s Steve C on George,
High above the dark gorge,
With the vultures surveying
Our Johnboy’s belaying.

Blame a crucial snapped hold
From what I’ve been told, For,
as rocks struck John’s toe,
Steve was forced to let go,
And JB left the ground
With expletives profound.

If this story’s not made up
They’ve just pushed the grade up
To E3 or more
Must be E2 for sure.

In arctic Lofoten
lobbing’s “verboten”.
(Seems the absence of night time
Discourages flight time.)
lobs shouldn’t happen
At Pianokrakken.

But would this prevent
One of such stubborn bent
As our own Stephen Gray?
No, he just had to display
That gravity there
Is less than down here.

Meanwhile Grit, west and east
Saw a veritable feast
Of top lobbing action
From the IMC faction.

Where should we begin?
Why, of course, at Crow Chin,
Where a man of the mountain
Was almost past counting
The lobs he could manage
In one day at Stanage.

Marmoset was the climb,
Andy H doing time,
But not quite prevailing
‘Spite some desperate flailing.

Andy also, I hear,
Spent some time in the air
When he took a long fall
High upon Calver Wall.
And there’s also a log
On his UKC blog
Of an interesting day
Soloing E5 6a.

One fine sunny day,
Rather earlier, in May,
I hear it was Guy
Who went flying by,
with customary fervour
He tackled L’Horla at Curbar.

Then, to find something bigger,
They walked up to Higgar,
Where accounts are agreed
‘Twas again grandpa Reid
Who wiped off his smile
As he lobbed from The File.

After four falls, no less,
Poor Guy’s hands were a mess.
If you can’t jam, it’s true,
This VS is E2.

At Froggatt I’m told
Stephen Gray was involved,
While upping the ante
On Strapiombante.

Rockfax might deem
This a “good first extreme”,
But its tail has a sting,
A potential huge swing,
Which left Carol, it’s said,
Nearly kicked in the head.

But let’s now shift our gaze
West, to far Castle Naze,
Where young Caroline’s game F
or a climb called “No Name”.

Says severe in the book.
Should be well worth a look,
But the handholds were slimy,
The footholds quite shiny,
And a Wild Country Rock
Is still suffering from shock.

Later on in the year,
Back on Curbar I hear,
We’ll find Martin Stevens.
Always better than evens
The chance of a lob
When he’s on the job.

If there’s truth in the tale
His complexion was pale
After hitting the ground
When his gear proved unsound.

Bones could have been cracked,
But with humour intact,
The most sought after news
Was the size of his bruise.

Elsewhere in this year,
There have been, I fear,
A full-scale procession
Of small indiscretions.

So this must be my cue
To recall just a few.

Bob the Butcher at Baslow
Found reasons to lie low,
While Adrian at Birchen
Found the Fo’c’sle too searching,

Michael B on Trapeze
(Should have made that with ease),
And young Merv. took a fall
Off of Ash Tree Wall.

Now it’s high time, I feel,
For me to reveal
Who’s won the award
In this year of our Lord.

But before I declare
The top lobber this year,
Let’s spare a wee thought
For those leaving with nought.

There can be but one winner,
One ultimate sinner,
But surely it’s true
That honour is due
To all who took part
In this dubious art.

So friends, get off your arses,
Lift up your glasses,
And give us a cheer
For the Lobs of the Year!

And now for the awards!

Before we get to the main event, there are a few preliminary gongs to present.

First the “Duracell” award for sheer quantity of climbing. With more than 300 routes completed this year it has to go to – Andrew Hansler.

Next the “IMC Climbing Achievement” award for the climber or climbers showing the greatest tenacity in moving up through the grades. This year the Award goes jointly to John Buchan and Karen Roberts for their first E1 leads on Brutus in Dovedale, with a sporting commendation to Aaron Willis and Gavin Atkins for achieving F7c in Kalymnos.

Next the “IMC Couch Potato” award for the climber or climbers showing the greatest tenacity in moving up through the grades without ever setting foot on the rock. This one, for breaking through to E3 by simply reading the new Lundy guidebook, goes to yours truly, ably seconded by Mervyn Lamacraft.

The “Hooker Prize” for contributions to local literature goes to all our contributors to this year’s splendid IMC newsletters: Steve Culverhouse, Gunni Page, Adrian Fagg, Ian Thurgood, Carol Fowles, Caroline Goldsworthy, any others I’m sure I’ve forgotten, and, of course, the editor in chief, Guy Reid.

For their contribution to national climbing literature (the new Lundy Guidebook again) we must honour Simon Chandler, Steve Culverhouse, and Mervyn Lamacraft (with apologies for the spelling, Mervyn, when you get to read it).

The RSPCA “Kindness to Animals” award goes to Peter and Louise Krug for their generosity in allowing Reynard the Fox to share their breakfast.

Then for spectacular geographical achievements we must acknowledge the following:

  • For the highest altitude reached – the summit of Mont Blanc – Mr Eddie Webster
  • For the furthest distance travelled East – Lake Baikal, Siberia – Dr Karen Roberts.
  • For the furthest West – Arizona – Dr Simon Chandler
  • For the furthest South – Capetown – Dr Stephen Culverhouse, the Revd. Ian Thurgood, and Dame Christina Ennis.
  • And for the furthest North – Lofoten – Dr Stephen Culverhouse, Professor Carol Fowles, and Lt. Gen. Sir Stephen Twistleton-Wickham-Gray Bt.

And now the main event – the lob of the year 2008.

The 6 club members short listed for this prestigious award are:

  • For George, Dovedale – Stephen Culverhouse
  • For Strapiombante, Froggatt and Pianokrakken, Lofoten – Stephen Gray
  • For No Name, Castle Naze, Caroline Goldsworthy
  • For L’Horla, Curbar and The File, Higgar Tor – Guy Reid
  • For Marmoset, Stanage and Calver Wall, Curbar – Andrew Hansler
  • For Pale Complexion, Curbar and other minor indiscretions – Martin Stevens.
  • With such high calibre action this has been a particularly difficult year for the judges.

We have of course been guided by the very important club rule which states that any falls resulting in serious injury, or the potential for serious injury, are automatically disqualified.

This year the judges were particularly swayed by the quality of the climbs from which the lobbing took place. In fact we decided it would be appropriate to introduce a brand new SI unit of measurement that combines the number of lobs with the number of guidebook stars. This new unit has been unofficially christened the “lobstar”.

So the winner this year is the man who confined his lobbing to two of the finest three star routes on Peak Gritstone, amassing an unassailable total in just one weekend of no less than 21 “lobstars”. Yes, it’s got to be – Guy Reid!

IMC Roll of Honour of Annual Awards

For an explanation of ‘Lob’, ‘Lobbing’ and ‘Lob of the Year’ please refer to ‘The Noble and Ancient Art of Lobbing‘ page

2008

This years LOTY awards ceremony was held at the prestigeous Masha restaurant, and was compered in verse by Martin Hore.

This year the judges introduced a brand new SI unit of measurement that combines the number of lobs with the number of guidebook stars. This new unit has been unofficially christened the “lobstar”. The winner of this years LOTY is the man who confined his lobbing to two of the finest three star routes on Peak Gritstone, amassing an unassailable total in just one weekend of no less than 21 “lobstars”. Yes, it’s got to be – Guy Reid!

You can the full transcript here.


2006

The winner of this years award is, once again, Steve Culverhouse for his work on ‘The File’ at Higgar Tor. The master of ceremonies was Peter Krug, whos speech may be read here.


2005

You can read a full transcript of the awards ceremony, written by Peter Krug.


2004

“… what followed developed into an adversarial contest of truly epic proportions, best described as ‘The Unprintable versus the Unconquerable’. According to my source, the lobs were many and spectacular, with air time accompanied by wild flapping of arms in a vain attempt to maintain altitude.”

You can read a full transcript of the awards ceremony, written by Martin Hore. Martin opened his awards speech with the lines … “In revenge it falls this year to me to take on the mantel of judge, jury, chief prosecutor, private investigator and raconteur”.


2003

Awarded to Martin Hore after “highly dubious decision making by one of the most biased juries ever to deliberate on behalf of the IMC”. There is no transcript of this award ceremony, which was frankly a drunken ramble.


2002

The winner of this years LOB of the Year with an early start to his young climbing and Lobbing career … Chris Harbottle.

For a full transcript of the awards ceremony, click here.


2001

The winner in 2001, for the style in which he lobbed, the location in front of twenty or more bemused onlookers, the equamity with which he handled the event and, most importantly, for the spectacular effect on the belayer who was hauled forward by the momentum and ending up kissing the rock, has to be Dave Tonks.

For a full transcript of the awards ceremony, click here.


2000 Belayer of the Year

For a sterling effort to reduce his leader’s lobbability by running backwards, like all good belayers should be prepared to do. The Belayer of the Year goes to our illustrious President Steve C.

 

2000 Lob of the Year

For his impeccable ability to pick out what must be the narrowest of landing places the Newsletter Editor has ever seen in his years of climbing, and he probably will never climb with me again because of this, Lob of the Year 2000 goes to Mark G.


1999

But our winner this year knew that distance wasn’t everything and that style counted too. The venue is Castle Naze and a certain familiar name is leading Left Hand Footstool. Mark G., on belay, takes up the story:

“One nice large Hex for protection, then a dyno for a small hold on the adjacent slab. The heart flutters whilst the finger grip holds but then slowly uncurls. Quick shouts of ‘take in, take in!‘ are followed by the fall, inverting en-route to end up with the Gearman’s head at waist level”.

The excuse produced afterwards was that he was just re-introducing Mark to leading and wanted to show that lobbing was perfectly safe. So the winner this year by a short head: proving that he’s equally adept on both the limestone and gritstone is:- Keith L.


1998 Lob of the Year – Special Runners Up Prize

This year’s runner up, for participating in the highest number of lobs this year, is the Isle of Lundy. As the Island couldn’t make it to the award ceremony – a good job, or there would have been no room for the rest of us! – Clare P. collected it on its behalf, well, she seemed so attached to a small part of it.

 

1998 Lob of the Year

The decision for the main prize this year was a foregone conclusion. He has the style and determination to carry on lobbing when others might have decided to stay on, has made the motto “been there, climbed it, fell off it” his own, this year’s winner – Steve C.


1997 “Mick Fowler” Climbing Award

The out-and-out joint winners in this new category are obvious. This team has been out there for the last couple of Scottish winter seasons – I hesitate to use the term ice-climbing, given what they’re actually going up. More recently they followed in the footsteps of the master, Mick himself, by attacking the chalk cliffs of the South Coast, and defending themselves as the cliffs fought back! – it’s the ice axe twins, Keith B. and Mike J.

 

1997 Lob of the Year

The star of this tale was climbing with Jenny M. and John P., on “Beeston Eliminate”, a multi-pitch HVS at Beeston Tor, in the Peaks. The 3rd pitch of this climb is a 22-metre traverse, starting with a difficult step down and across. Jenny led across, protecting the pitch entirely with threaded wires. Our heroine went next and had just started the step down when she found herself unable to hold on, quite a serious position, as she was about 15ft from the next runner and level with it. “What now?” she shouted as her fingers slipped off the hold. “RUN!” was John’s advice. And she did, executing a neat semicircular trot down, across and up the other side. Then back again, and again, in a series of diminishing arcs until finally coming to rest. An exciting pendulum for the spectators (and participant), and notable for the elegance of execution. So for her antics seconding at Beeston Tor, this year’s winner is Carol F.


1996 Pilot’s Licence Award

Combined with his efforts in previous years, Tim B. has now racked up enough air miles to gain his pilot’s licence, although the committee recommends that he give up on the low-level aerobatics and concentrate on vertical distance rather than horizontal.

 

1996 Lob of the Year

Well, this year’s winner has certainly made his name, so now it’s time for him to claim his “glorious hour”… For being one half of the synchronised lobbing team, and for his well-publicised activities elsewhere, Lob of the Year 1996 goes to the club’s star of stage and TV screen, Martin H.


1995

This was the year of the Club’s Spanish “El Lobbo”, the French “Le Lob” and the lack of a German “Der Lob”. This apart the coveted prize goes to joint winners Mark S. and Claire P. for their combined antics at Stanage Edge.


1994 Belayer of the Year

This year’s Belayer of the Year prize has to go to another newcomer, Keith L., for his method of belaying demonstrated one evening on Curbar Edge. He put the rope through the belay plate and attached the karabiner. He then calmly unzipped his fly, reached in with the karabiner, clipped to something, and started belaying. Very cool Keith, but what’s the breaking strain?!

 

1994 Lob of the Year

This year, despite a severe cooling off at the end of the season, there could really be only one winner. For his fine efforts on Kinder, and his great route-finding on “Slippery People”, this year’s Lob of the Year goes to Tim B.


1993 Belayer of the Year

The judges took a long time deliberating over this, but, after consulting the rule book, they decided the winner was Steve J., for dropping Scott McR. in Tenerife and dropping himself (on abseil) in Spain Perhaps next year he’ll be in action in this country.

 

1993 Lob of the Year

The judges were undecided between the merits of pure distance, against injury, against overall performance throughout the year. In the end, consistency won the day, which made the prize almost uncontested. He’s lobbed in Staffordshire, he’s fallen in Derbyshire, he was involved in Wales – for a gutsy performance, when he just never gave up, this year’s Lob of the Year goes to Peter H.