President’s Prattle
Now where the heck should I start … I know I have got to start the Christmas shopping … but oh bugger I have got to do another Prattle which means … oh yes I am El Pres again! It’s as you were on the Club Officers and Committee front which I suppose saves changing the headers but does mean you have to put up with me again. May I take the opportunity to thank the club officers – Mervyn Lamacraft, Guy Reid, Dave Scott and Simon Chandler – for their support over the past year and look forward to their continued support in the next year. The same feelings are extended to the committee members (you know who you are). I would like to have said that we held off stiff competition but there wasn’t any and owing to the pressing need for beer we were elected ‘en bloc!’
As usual I will take the opportunity to review what has happened over the past few months since my previous missive. In truth the hasn’t been too much activity, at least in terms of formal meets as the club enters its normal state of hibernation before usual flurry of activity over and after the New Year but I do need to thank Ian Thurgood especially for his efforts in organizing the Beginners Follow-through Meet in September. Sadly, the weather lived down to expectations on the Saturday and I blame this lack of activity rather than the spectacular fire in our tent (thanks IMC fire brigade) for the state of inebriation I found myself in on Saturday night! I vaguely recall some climbing occurring on the Sunday though!
Other than that Martin Hore did organize a Yorkshire-somewhere-near-Swanage Meet at the end of September and found us a very good campsite to base ourselves at for future trips. There have also been a few trips to the Peak District.
We did support some local events and in particular we had a very strong presence at the Felixstowe Half Marathon with Steve Gray and Clare Lambert taking the IMC honours although not winning. The hardcore of the Half Marathon runners were in pre-race training at the Ipswich Beer Festival demonstrating the breadth of interests within the club (some members are even doing Ballroom Dancing!).
One of the things discussed at length at the AGM was the issue of meets being only for Club members. I had noticed at a few events that some of the attendees weren’t actually club members and just wanted to raise the issue but I didn’t expect the “Spanish Inquisition!” The most likely scenario that could cause this was if a club member invited a mate along.
Maybe I am paranoid but as you know one of the main benefits of club membership is the third party insurance cover provided as the result of our affiliation to the BMC. If something involving a non-member went “tits-up” and he was sued by an injured party but could not pay up it is possible that the club might get implicated hence the need for membership. Notwithstanding this it was also felt that there was a moral obligation to be a member because the planning and logistics are made by club members giving up their own free time to do so.
Anyway, it was agreed to reaffirm this condition at all meets and organizers are asked to look into this which I don’t think will be that onerous as generally we know who is a member and people wishing to invite a non-member along should now know their responsibilities. Please remember this has been the case for number of years – it is not new. Then there was a discussion on “when is a meet a meet?” It was agreed that a Meet is official if it has been advertised on the Club Meets or via the members@ipswich-m-c.co.uk facility (i.e. you use the club mailing facility) although members are encouraged to bear the possible consequences of something going wrong no matter whenever you are out and about with a mate!
We are about to kick into action with our winter program which should be in this newsletter somewhere. As usual we are looking for organizers and if you want to organize a meet the destination is your prerogative. If you fancy going away on any other weekend you can always advertise for collaborators using the mailing facility (which off course makes it an official meet!). I think there are spaces available for the New Year weekend in North Wales so I would get your skates on sharpish if you are interested!
By the time you read this Christmas Curry will have been and gone so I am taking this moment to thank Louise Farr for organizing it and I believe that the Lob of the Year Oration will be included within this tome.
In the meantime may I take this opportunity to wish you all a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Make sure you take care when out on the hill or crag so that you can come back and write about it as the Newsletter Editor is always gagging for it (articles that is!).
Cheers
El Presidente
Editor’s Erratum
With a fanfare The December Issue lands on your electronic doormat and it’s gone International. We leave the shores of this scepter’d isle and venture abroad in the company of three virgin (well, their first time with me anyway) contributors. And didn’t they have fun!
My thanks to all the contributors of the last twelve months and my pleas to everyone to put pen to paper during the next twelve; to break that duck, if you haven’t already, and let us know what’s going out there in the far reaches IMCland.
And whilst you are enjoying a moment of quiet postprandial contemplation think on this; at The AGM it was noted that though the total membership of the IMC remains fairly constant over the years a significant number of people do not renew their membership at the end of a year but that there is an almost equal number of new joinees (see “From the Secretary”). Thoughts on a postcard to the usual address.
Enjoy your festivities.
e-mail to: guy@falconhurst.com or post to:
Guy Reid, Falconhurst, 27, Bath Road, Felixstowe, Suffolk IP11 7JN.
Lob of the Year, 2005
Well folks it’s that time of year once again. You’ve wined and dined and some poor bastard has to sing for his supper and this year the dubious honour as ‘raconteur’ has fallen on me.
Firstly you may have noticed but largely ignored my appeal asking for notable achievements by IMC members and the response was deafening silence. No reports of young Bluebottle having climbing E12 although there are reports of Steve Gray aiding and nearly leading an E2 in the Lakes (more about that later). Furthermore, Steve Gray and Clare Lambert took the honours at this year’s Felixstowe Half Marathon and there was mention somewhere about Simon Chandler and a brush with the law (now what’s all that about?).
Your raconteur was scratching his head – but wait – at the end of November two IMCers have received their acceptances for the 2006 London Marathon ! Now you might say what’s the achievement in that? But after five attempts for Mervyn and four for myself to get in via the ballot I consider that an achievement! And I see that you are in training Mervyn … “Slainte mhath!”
Now getting back to more pressing matters it is good to see that there were some aeronautical experiences from new and unexpected sources this year. This certainly shows the depth of talent and ability at the disposal of this fine club of ours. However, not to be outdone by the ‘new kids on the block’ (err cough) there was aerial activity from some rather more familiar and indeed more experienced sources who should know better! Naturally, Mervyn – and what would be a LOTY without some mention of this much-honoured member of the Pilot License Club? – saw some activity at the beginners meet and later on at Wintours Leap in the Wye Valley.
Nearer to home the raconteur himself probably started proceedings off with an unscheduled loss of contact with terra firma, albeit of the white variety, in the Cairngorms when climbing a Grade1 or is it Grade 2 ice-climb called “The Slant”. If you haven’t already read about this please refer to Johnboy Buchan’s rather fine article entitled “Pulled off by El Pres” on the website. I could also refer to another more serious departure from the rock which occurred in Northumberland when Team Wuckfit were reunited for the first since climbing in the snow at Stanage last November which resulted in the raconteur hitting the ground, getting a limp, and rather more seriously nearly destroying his indestructible “terra pants!” The things I do to avoid getting another Lob of the Year
In June a ‘splitter’s’ group of Norman Smith, Adrian Fagg, John Sellars and Martin Stevens went to the Peak in search of easier limestone at Harborough Rocks. A short while after arriving Adrian decided he could tackle Overhanging Chimney Direct, S 4a and instead took a flying lesson of his own, falling from above his gear having passed the crux. He paused in his inverted descent only to hit his belayer before coming to rest scant inches above the floor, inverted. A short time was spent in recovery but no physical harm seems to have been the result although the clash of (helmeted) heads may explain away headaches on Saturday morning.
Norman Smith arrived little too late to witness the excitement of the first-ever-leader-fall by Adrian but not to be outdone Norman decided that ‘The Blaster’ at HVS 5b was very protectable and eminently ‘do-able’. The climbing was fine, but hanging about to place gear proved too much and Adrian was able to show movie-footage at the September slide show of a certain Mr. Smith proving he can’t fly. Footage was filmed in spite of the cameraman being harassed by the lobbist’s loyal pooch who was attacking him as he filmed his master’s fall from grace as it were!
A lob that may be worthy of consideration occurred in the lakes on the August BH trip. A damp Friday morning saw Adrian and Kearton heading up the valley to Raven Crag. Adrian’s usual navigational skills deserted him and they arrived directly at the base of their intended climb – Corvus. With both climbers sharing the lead on this justly celebrated climb Kearton joined Adrian at the base of the much-vaunted hand-traverse and was persuaded that this was really much easier than it looked. Kearton either knows no fear or is very gullible, for he shortly set out confidently to the right hand end of the traverse.
As he stepped out onto the face, the weather, sensing the occasion, proceeded to dump a heavy burst of rain onto the party. Nevertheless, Kearton made his way to the central platform, placing a friend and a hex in the horizontal crack, clipped in and with Adrian in position to criticize his every move, reached out and down with his foot, slipped, threw his weight back onto his arms, recovered, and got his breath back. Adrian pointed out that you need to keep your feet high as the low footholds gave very little grip when streaming with water. I think this advice would have been easier to follow if there had been any higher footholds than the big smooth tempting one down and just out of reach on the left. He set out from the mid-traverse having a second time kept his feet high for one step, then with Adrian saying “No, don’t reach for it yet.” he promptly reached out and down with his left foot and promptly fell off. The fact that the rock was wet probably saved him from any grazing as he slithered down and across, thankfully not hitting the sloping wall on the right with any force. To his credit, Kearton seemed quite prepared to have another go, but Adrian rather selfishly announced that he would lead it anyway as another club member had famously slipped at the end of the traverse. They did, as was customary, manage to delay their return to the campsite until after dark, mainly to keep the others guessing.
As I mentioned above one of our more senior members took multiple smallish lobs from the crux overlap of Spring Bank (on Glimmer), E2 5c and eventually had to be rescued by top-rope by the reporter. Carol then followed the pitch without appearing to spot the difficulty at all. Steve went back later in the summer and got the route done, but rumour has it that the tiniest of pulls on gear might have been involved. The same correspondent reported further tales on Left Hand Route, Ravens tor, Dovedale, E1 5b in July that involved a spectacular lob witnessed from across the river. Some fairly frantic scrabbling at the crux resulted in a 10 – 15 ft lob and the belayer herself parted company with the ground.
Guy Reid has been very busy lobbing during the summer. There are preposterous tales of him lobbing from Preposterous Tales at Pembroke where Guy took a small but highly exciting lob while seconding the traverse pitch in the dark section (not the first IMC member to do so). He was left hanging in space above the crashing sea contemplating a 10ft prussic to safety. Simon and Martin were safely ensconced on the next stance, out of sight round the corner, trying to communicate with Guy during lulls in the waves. Famous last words: Martin says to Simon. “Does Guy know how to prussic??” – He does.
Further rope weighting activity occurred on the Peapod at Curbar, HVS 5b, in July which Guy chose to lead in spite of an aversion to jamming and he’s never having “backed and footed” up a chimney before in his life. Peapod is not really the climb on which to learn either of these skills. Several occurrences of “weighting the gear” was the inevitable result, but eventually the “pod” succumbed.
There were several bouts of airtime for Guy at Hen Cloud in July most memorably on Hen Cloud Eliminate where Guy’s aversion to jamming was in evidence again. Even Guy’s renowned arm strength was insufficient to permit lay backing this superb but flared jamming crack. Again, after several “lobettes” Guy succeeded on the route, forcing the “nipple-eroding” final groove with great ease, it has to be said.
Did I mention Martin Hore’s allegedly “minuscule lobette” from Avalanche Wall (Curbar) that he blamed on a slippery jam? And then there was the extra-ordinary concept of young Mick Enright lobbing three feet and breaking his ankle, which off course ruled him out the running! Selfish bastard! Mind you who am I to talk?
All in all this year has proven from the quantity of falls that have been recounted within this oration that there is plenty of talent within the club although you may ask where is the young talent as all the contenders are the senior side of forty? Who says “there’s no such thing as old bold climbers?” After much soul-searching and deliberation the jury has decided that in view of the comedy value and indeed the tone lowering possibilities offered by a clash of helmets to bestow the honour of Belayer of the Year “for his willingness to sacrifice his helmet for his leader” and Lob of the Year for 2005 “for being prepared to risk everything, even his helmet, for the sake of the climb” to Martin Stevens and Adrian Fagg respectively for their antics on Overhanging Chimney at Harborough Rocks!
Signed
Judge Dread!
Articles
This months articles can be seen on separate webpages by clicking the following links. For other articles see the articles index.
Name that Route
Route 1
Route 2
Route 1 = Knight’s Move, Burbage North, HVS 5a
Route 2 = Neb Buttress, Bamford, HVS 5a
Christmas Carol Corner
The Twelve Days of Christmas
The Twelve Days of Christmas
On the Twelfth day of Christmas my true love gave to me
Twelve dyneema slings
Eleven pairs of wiregates
Ten Rocks on wire
Nine various guide books
Eight SLCDs
Seven assorted offsets
Six bd swedges
Five locking krabs
Four jolly hexes
Three Zeroes
Two prussic loops
And a pair of Mammut half ropes
We Three Cams
We three cams of Wild Country are
Protecting routes we travel afar
In scars and cracks and flaring breaks
We give you that feeling of “aaah”
O cam of wonder, cam of might
Cam preventing too much fright
As upward leading you’re proceeding
We protect in scary plight
From The Secretary
All enquiries and correspondence should be directed to the Secretary.
Mervyn Lamacraft,
11 St Georges Road,
Felixstowe,
IP11 9PL
Tel: 01394 277050 or send email to mervynlamacraft@hotmail.com.
Membership
There are currently 111 members including 35 new and 10 under-18 members. 90% of members have chosen to receive the newsletter electronically, and 95% of members have their details listed on the web contact list. 58 (out of 130) of last year’s members did not renew this year.
The BMC has written to confirm membership renewal details for 2006: £190 for the first 20 members and £8.75 per head thereafter. To improve administrative efficiency the BMC will be moving to an electronic renewal process in 2006
We were registered with the BMC for 2005. Our BMC membership provided Civil Liability insurance with a £5M indemnity limit in respect of any claim. Note that this insurance does not give Personal Accident Disability Cover. It is possible to upgrade from Group to Full membership, usually at a discount, should you so wish. Contact the BMC for details.
Youth Hostel Association (YHA) group membership
The IMC has group membership of the Youth Hostel Association. The relevant information on the membership card, held by the IMC club secretary, is as follows:
Name: Ipswich Mountaineering Club
Membership No: 018-7653317
Category: Group
Expires end: September 2006
This enables us to use the 230 Youth Hostels in England and Wales, and the network of 4,500 Youth Hostels in 60 countries worldwide that display the Hostelling International sign. You can also enjoy exclusive offers and discounts on key attractions, receive discounts on Youth Hostel visits at selected times of the year and receive free mailings of Groups Away and YHA newsletters.
The Committee
For a list of committee members, see the contacts page
IMC Webpage News
The IMC webpage address is http://ipswich-m-c.co.uk/
The photo competition for 2005 is now over. Thirty three photos were submitted by 13 people between January – November 2005. During the two week voting period between 2nd November and 16th November votes were cast by members of the IMC for their favorite photo (2 points awarded) and second favorite photo (1 point). Forty five votes were cast, giving a total of 135 points.
In third place, with 12 points (9% of points), was Andy Hansler with his photo taken on the Summit of Mont Blanc August on 11th this year, at 7:50 in the morning.
In second place, with 16 points (12%), was “Bouldering on the Gower coast”, by Jantiwa Willis
In first place, with 20 points, was “The Aiguille Du Midi from the Summit of Mont Blanc”, again by Andy Hansler
So together with his third place photo Andy received 25% of all the votes cast, so was the clear winner of our competition. The results were announced – and shown in a slideshow – at the IMC’s AGM at the Dove Street Inn. Andy was there, so he was awarded his prize of a £25 gift token, generously donated by our friend Dave Tonks of Action Outdoors.
Special mention should made for Adrian Fagg, whose three submitted photos came 4th, joint 5th and joint 6th, so making up 17% of all the votes cast; his was the second highest total of any one person.
All the photos that were submitted for the competition can be seen in their full-size glory on the competition webpage. It’s interesting (well, it is for geeks like me!) that 26 of the 33 submitted photos were voted for by somebody as their favorite (or 2nd favorite) picture, and that the winning photo – with 15% of the votes – was only 3% ahead of the second place. These numbers show just what broad a range tastes people have when it comes to photography.
The photos will now be used on our webpages, and will be added to the photo album. I’ll put the contributor’s names with their photos as soon as I get a chance. For now though I’m busy preparing for a trip to the ICE 2006 ice climbing festival with Nick Willis. You never know, there may be an article about that adventure one day!
Simon
Diary Dates
See our Club Meets page for up-to-date details.
This scheduled list is suggested as a framework for meets in the coming months and to help get dates into your diaries; however, we are looking for volunteers to co-ordinate some of the events and for ideas of where people would like to go. Please contact the meets coordinator if you are interested in helping to organise any of the above or to make suggestions for future meets.
A quick reminder regarding attendance: Please note that anyone attending an official Ipswich Mountaineering Club meet must be a member of the Ipswich Mountaineering Club or some other BMC affiliated club. A “meet” being defined as any trip advertised on the website or newsletter or announced/advertised via the e-mail facility (i.e. members@ipswich-m-c.co.uk).
