Author Archives: Guy Reid

Team Buffalo away to Stanage

Guy and Simon battle the elements

In what turned out to be a ‘David and Goliath’ affair The Buffalo Boys went North
to Stanage for a weekend that was intended to kick-start their outside year on
real rock after a winter of inaction and plastic.

However what was billed as a pre-season friendly became a slightly stiffer test
as the home team brought out their big hitter – The Wind.

Saturday dawned hopeful and with a pre-prepared slimmed down ‘Stanage rack’ and
single rope we set out with lighter packs than usual.

“Be bold, start cold” the maxim goes, and it was yes to both as I left North Lees
in a t-shirt then as we hit the path atop Stanage the wind really showed its
teeth, Brrrracing.

At the Left-Hand End we dropped down and opened up the ‘definitive’ – what a
fantastic book. If you haven’t got it, put it on your birthday list – and sorted
out a route.

You can call me “Rusty Cobweb” I thought as I struggled seconding a route I
should have found a lot easier, but joining Simon at the top I was just bloomin’
happy be on real rock again.

The conditions precluded extremity and as we meandered back toward North Lees we
looked for jolly entertainment: we found routes that we’d not done before and
came across a whole area that was new to us both.

High points grade-wise, if you’re looking for such, were Simon’s flashing of a
cracking 5c problem that I could only just start (thus showing the benefits of
bouldering – hey ho, perhaps I will have to give it a go sometime), and his
on-sight of a tricky HVS despite an attack of cramp at the crux.

At close to six, with the sun going and the cloud coming, the whistle blew for
half time with The Wind slightly ahead on points.

Sunday; and the second half saw ‘Howling’, The Wind’s bigger and meaner brother,
brought off the sub’s bench.

Things get skewed in such conditions however I think, on the day, we gave a fine
account of ourselves and the smile that came onto my face atop Christmas Crack
stayed with me all the way home on the team bus; a pint of coffee and a
slab of flapjack at Outside having set us up for the journey.

The Wind may have got the better of us in some ways but it was a Pyrrhic victory:
it will always be remembered as bitter and cold whilst the weekend had fun and
warmth writ large on it.

April Peak Performance

Another Impromptu IMC Posse descends on the Peak District

Guy Reid – April 2009

Take a free weekend and some free people, add a couple of days of reasonable
(although good is better if you can get it) weather and spice with conversation
to your palate, ice with a thick layer of routes to tickle your fancy and there
you have it – the recipe for a great climbing trip.

I began with “a trip out of a hat”, Mike B followed with “ you beat me to it”;
Martin said he could fire up ‘The Beast’ but a seat in a car would be preferable
and Clare S confirmed she’d be outside Outside in Hathersage at 9am on Saturday
morning. Lastly Eddie from Bury chipped in that he’d join us just for the day
and agreed to find us at the crag.

I picked up Martin at 1pm on Friday and knowing that Paul McC had already written
the tune we started off on our long and winding road.

Bar Hill wasn’t too bad but we were warned about long delays from J25 to J29 on
M1 and at 25, noticing the traffic slowing dramatically, we drifted off into the
hinterlands; our original intention of a couple of routes at Birchen before bed
turned into a dash of limestone and we purred toward Wildcat. Along the way we
overheated but with Martin “The Mechanic” Stevens on hand we discovered the
fault, reconnected the fan and despite losing a looong half hour still reached
Matlock Bath in time to enjoy Lynx (HS4b, 4b **) before heading on to Hardhurst
and a well-earned cup of tea.

Saturday morning 9am and outside Outside there was Clare – and by half past we
were standing under Heather Crack VS 4c ** with me thinking, “oh, that’s steeper
than I remember”.

And so the day began.

In no particular order (because I can’t remember names so think yourselves lucky
you’ve got them at all)

  • Lancashire Wall VS5a *
  • Green Wall VS4b *
  • Manchester Buttress HS4b ***
  • Gargoyle Buttress VS4b **
  • Black Hawk HS4c **
  • Black Hawk Hell Crack S4a ***
  • Capstone chimney Diff *

I backed off Z Crack VS4c * feeling bruised and exhausted but knowing that I
would be back there one day; fitter, stronger and ready for another tussle. And
I racked up for, and then scuttled away from, Grotto Wall HVS4c and In Earnest
HVS5a each time thinking that a route with some . . . any . . .gear in sight
would be preferable.

Mid-morning Eddie found us and enjoyed a few routes before he headed off at about
4pm just as we came across Des (a locum surgeon who had been at Ipswich Hospital
and climbed with us at Copleston for a few months earlier this year).

The day ended atop Green Wall at about 7.30 with an agreement that I would text
Des Sunday’s destination – when I knew it.

Returning to the hullabaloo at Hardhurst was quite depressing after such an
excellent day, but the din did eventually die down.

Sunday dawned bright, clear and crisp, the sun sparkling off the morning frost.
By 9 the sun was high, the frost had melted, my tent was down and Clare and I
were in the car heading to Baslow. Where? You say. Yes, Baslow.

Martin had waxed lyrical about it the previous evening so a decision had been

As we pulled into the parking bays below Curbar Des pulled up and together the
three of us went exploring.

Baslow could best be described as a string of small buttresses that have to be
accessed individually by walking along the top of the crag and dropping down;
there is no real path along the bottom. The routes are generally short. We had
decided to head for the far end and then work back toward the car during the

The crag is west facing and gets the afternoon sun, at the far end we dropped
down out of glorious sunshine into cold shade. Not an inspiring start I’m

We saw a nice line, Larceny HVS5a, but decided to warm up on something easier and
come back after. Rough Wall Climb VS4c* at 6m is more like a boulder problem and
as such has very little gear though Des’s WC Zero 5 gave me the confidence to
move on up. Interesting, but over all too quickly. Back at the bottom, in the
shade and cold, we went back to Larceny, which at 12m was more like a climb. I
personally enjoyed it though Clare was not so sure – her fingers too cold to
feel the holds.

A change of venue was needed so we found Martin and Mike, made arrangements for
later and by noon, having managed to park in a packed Surprise View car park we
were in a warm, sun-dappled, sylvan glade – a virtually empty Lawrencefield.

Tyrone (anything between VS4c and HVS5a) warmed us up and then Excalibur VS4c***
rounded the day, and the weekend, off with a pump in our forearms and a smile on
our faces.

Clare, Des and I smiled, shook hands and drifted off following our own paths
homeward. Mine took me to a pint of coffee and a slab of flapjack at Outside in
Calver, and tales from Martin and Mike about their day at Baslow (great by all
accounts). And from there Martin and I hit the road for Suffolk leaving Mike to
browse in Outside for a while before he too headed South.

Newsletter – December 2008

Madam’s Final Meanderings

So long and thanks for all the ghoti 1,2

I started writing this preamble back in June for it to go in the last newsletter. That was an edition that never got to hit the mean streets of Ipswich and I do think it’s a bit sad that so many of us get out and about and never have time to put pen to paper and share our adventures.

WHAT is this life if, full of care,
We have no time to stand and stare?—
No time to stand beneath the boughs,
And stare as long as sheep and cows:

WH Davies

With one thing and another for me the climbing season did not get off to a good start. At the Beginners’ meet I backed off the start of Little Ernie and ended up leading a green, slimy chimney (the boyfriend would be so proud!). I then, for some unaccountable reason found myself halfway up Recess Wall, stuck under a roof and struggling to make the move. My helmet kept banging on the roof making me feel more and more claustrophobic and insecure. I backed off got cams and was soon installed once again under the roof, with the helmet still crashing into it and blocking out all other noise. I could see the sequence and where the foot needed to go but I was at full stretch and every time I put my foot up my grip on the hand holds was becoming more and more tenuous. I could not do the move. I backed off again and was almost crying with frustration! A better day was had on the Sunday but as I updated my logbook I realised that in August 1997 I had led that very same route! How? The only conclusion is that I was more flexible then as I am pretty sure that I was not any taller. Mind you, I must have been going well that day as I led another VDiff called Two Tier Climb, which I seem to remember was a bit of a struggle at the top. Those of you who study your guidebooks closely will know that Two Tier Climb was upgraded to VS 5a a few years ago with the comment; “Another Stanage sandbag which was graded VDiff for 30 years”.

Things did improve however and Andy and I have written about our big Classic Tick Day out. Then things went downhill as I commenced a 7-week grand tour of BT telephone exchanges and a new hotel every night. Though it has to be said that I can pack a suitcase very quickly now! Once this project was out of the way the coaching trip to Turkey loomed large and it occurred to me that I really needed to get out on rock unless I planned on being class duffer and not being able to climb anything under the gaze of my hero Mr McClure. A week’s “intensive” training at Horseshoe Quarry was planned. Exhausted as I still was from all the travelling, an intensive day for me was in the region of five leads. However, the situation did improve and before Turkey I’d got my red-point grade back to F6a.

The coaching trip was fantastic and my scepticism about how well it would translate to my trad grade proved to be totally groundless. Further my on-sight grade has increased to F6a which was a bogey grade for me for quite some time and red-pointing is now at F6b. Improvements in trad leading have been noticeable as my leading head seems to be much more in gear than it has been over the last two years. Although soloing a Severe one day and lobbing off a Severe the following day is probably not a prime example, but nevertheless I’m looking forward to a good season next year.

So in closing I’d like to say thanks to everyone who has supported the club trips during the year, especially those who have willingly and cheerfully given up their time to help with the Beginners’ tips.

It has been a great pleasure to serve as your President and I hope you will all continue to give the same support to your new President.

It’s been emotional!




1 Taken from the title of the fourth in the Hitchhikers’ Trilogy So long and thanks for all the fish, by the late, great Douglas Adams

2Ghoti is a constructed example used to illustrate irregularities in English spelling. It is a respelling of the word fish, and like fish is pronounced /ˈfɪʃ/. It has, gh, pronounced /f/
as in tough /tʌf/; o, pronounced /ɪ/ as in women /ˈwɪmɪn/; and ti, pronounced /ʃ/ as in nation /ˈneɪʃən/. The first known published reference is in 1874, citing an 1855 letter that credits ghoti to one William Ollier (born 1824). Ghoti is often cited to support English spelling reform, and is often attributed to George Bernard Shaw a supporter of this cause. However, a biography of Shaw attributes it instead to an anonymous spelling reformer. [Source: Wikipedia]

The New President’s Prattle

Wotcha folks, I am back. Gawd help us. I have decided to make the Caretaker Manager position as IMC President more permanent. At least for another year that is. I must thank Caroline for her sterling efforts over the past couple of years, including a fine role in stitching me up to be President for another year!

As you will be aware from the spate of resignations just over a month ago there were a number of posts up for new blood so this year’s AGM was always going to prove a little “interesting”, though not in the climbing sense of the word. Apart from the President’s position, which has
already been mentioned, Louise had to give up the Secretary’s role as she did not have the time to give the position the attention that she felt it required and Dave Coupe has stepped in to take over the job (good man, I have not forgotten that I owe you a beer!). Both Guy and
Simon wanted to give up the Newsletter Editor and Webmaster roles respectively. In the end a solution was found whereby Simon was to continue as Webmaster but handed over the “technical aspects” of putting together the Newsletter to Adrian Fagg who is to work with Caroline Goldsworthy (Apostrophe police) in putting together the Newsletter. If you get that please explain it to me in simple English!

I wish to thank all the “retiring” officers for their hard work over the past year (several years in both Simon’s and Guy’s cases). I know how much time they all put in to keep the club and the Newsletter going.

One more thing to mention is that the IMC Slideshows (cum socials) have been resurrected. They will be held at the Lloyd’s Tavern on the traditional third Thursday of the month (during winter) with the first one being held on the 15th January (subject matter to be decided). I have asked if the music can be turned down (those who were at the AGM will know what I mean).
All that remains to say is enjoy the remainder of this year and, as I am already, look forward to the winter meets in the New Year.

Take care on the hill.

See you soon.



Editor’s Erratum

As this will be my last Erratum I really would like to take this opportunity to put into print my heartfelt thanks to all the contributors over the last four years – you have been fantastic. I hope that the membership will continue the good work, perhaps even increasing it, for the new incumbent.

I have had a great time and felt privileged to be the first to read all the articles as they came in.

I’m sure that this issue will, as ever, entertain and inspire you; there’s good stuff herein.

I will leave the setting of a deadline to the new Editor but I would hope to read about ice axes being swung and extreme temperatures survived when the next issue hits my e-doormat.

Once again, a big “thank you” to all who have helped to make the newsletter what it is.


Name that Route

A bumper crop of routes for you to identify from Guy’s cryptic photos

Route 1

Route 2

Route 3

Route 4



This Newsletter’s articles can be seen on separate webpages by clicking the following links. It’s a
bumper crop, with tales of daring do from far and wide.

Did you know that most of the articles that have previously appeared in the IMC newsletter can be read online? Find them listed in the Articles Index. By the way, these can now be read by anyone on the internet – not just members of the IMC. So tell your friends and family.

Website News

I’ve been asked to give some more info about the IMC website’s
new photo gallery. The important change is that you can upload
your photos to this gallery so that they instantly appear on the
IMC webpages, and you can give each photo a title and add some
descriptive text. Go to

To use the gallery the first thing you need to do is open
the gallery page and register by clicking the link in its top
right corner. You only need to do this once. I know it’s a bind
but it’s a necessary evil to prevent malicious people from
outside the club from posting nasty pictures (of course it won’t
stop malicious people from inside the club from doing that – but
if you do I’ll know who you are!). As soon as I get your email
I’ll add you to the list of people who can post to the photo

The gallery is fairly intuitive to use, but if you need help
click the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) link on the gallery
page (top-right) or click here. When viewing photos in the
gallery you can give them a star rating and can write comments.
Keep ’em clean please! Only members can leave comments but
anyone can vote. That reminds me, the gallery is open for
viewing by the general public. You can create your own album in
the gallery, and if you wish you can set a password or make it
viewable only by other members of the IMC. You can give each
photo a title and add some descriptive text. Have a play and

Despite what some people have said, the photos you contribute
are stored on the IMC web server (not an external site like
Flikr) which allows them to be used on multiple pages throughout
the IMC website. For example your photo may appear in the
montage on the homepage, or indeed it may appear here…

I put this new facility in place hoping that it will keep the
photo album fresh. I hope you find it useful. The IMC webserver
has a capacity of 250 MB, which is currently about half
full. To stop us filling this up in a trice with your huge high
resolution photos I’ve restricted the size of photos that can be
uploaded to 200 kB. Images for viewing on a website really don’t
need to be any bigger than that. If you have any problems with
this, or anything else feel free to contact me. I look forward to seeing the gallery used, and to viewing your wonderful photos.

Simon – IMC Webmaster


The Committee

There were quite a few changes in line up at our last AGM. You can see who’s now on the
committee at the contacts page, which
includes a description of each of the committee roles.


Diary Dates

See our Club Meets page for up-to-date details about
meetings and events that are currently planned by the Ipswich Mountaineering Club

This scheduled list is suggested as a framework for meets in the coming
months and to help get dates into your diaries; however, we are looking
for volunteers to co-ordinate some of the events and for ideas of where
people would like to go. Please contact the meets
if you are interested in helping to organise any of the
above or to make suggestions for future meets.

A quick reminder regarding attendance: Please note that anyone
attending an official Ipswich Mountaineering Club meet must be a
member of the Ipswich Mountaineering Club or some other BMC
affiliated club. A “meet” being defined as any trip advertised on
the website or newsletter or announced/advertised via the e-mail
facility (i.e.

Lob of the year 2008

Can I first say how honoured I am to have been asked by our esteemed president to present the annual review of the year.

As most of you know I’ve been on leave from the IMC climbing scene this summer. So, by way of a reversal of the normal literary disclaimer, let me make it absolutely clear that while I’m happy to take the credit for what follows, any factual errors are entirely the responsibility of those who provided me with the information. (And many thanks indeed for all the contributions).

Now, no doubt you’d suppose, I’d present this in prose. But to be slightly perverse, I’m going to try it in verse…………

Actually this was an idea that came to me a couple of years ago. Referring to an episode that year on Gimmer Crag, the verse in question was entitled “Whom should we thank for the fun on Spring Bank?” It was going to start something like this:

“Whom should we thank
For the fun on Spring Bank,
But the man, if you please,
Who wears tights with no knees?”

Sadly the “fun on Spring Bank” has receded far into the club’s memory banks by now, as, hopefully, have Steve G’s tights. So this evening’s poetic improvisation is entitled rather more prosaically “The Ballad of 2008”.

What follows is doubtless replete with scurrilous scansion and reprehensible rhyme, and could well turn out to be a complete disaster. So here’s hoping that everyone’s suitably lubricated, and willing to give the benefit of doubt to a humble “Bard of Ipswich”.

Here goes – “The Ballad of 2008”

Friends! Set down your beers
And lend me your ears,
For I’ve tales to unfold
Of deeds daring and bold.

It’s the annual story
Of lost pride and glory,
Blind panic and fear.
Yes, it’s “lob of the year”

Let me start down in Dovedale.
Here’s rumoured a good tale
Of crumbling rock layers
And high-flying belayers.

It’s Steve C on George,
High above the dark gorge,
With the vultures surveying
Our Johnboy’s belaying.

Blame a crucial snapped hold
From what I’ve been told, For,
as rocks struck John’s toe,
Steve was forced to let go,
And JB left the ground
With expletives profound.

If this story’s not made up
They’ve just pushed the grade up
To E3 or more
Must be E2 for sure.

In arctic Lofoten
lobbing’s “verboten”.
(Seems the absence of night time
Discourages flight time.)
lobs shouldn’t happen
At Pianokrakken.

But would this prevent
One of such stubborn bent
As our own Stephen Gray?
No, he just had to display
That gravity there
Is less than down here.

Meanwhile Grit, west and east
Saw a veritable feast
Of top lobbing action
From the IMC faction.

Where should we begin?
Why, of course, at Crow Chin,
Where a man of the mountain
Was almost past counting
The lobs he could manage
In one day at Stanage.

Marmoset was the climb,
Andy H doing time,
But not quite prevailing
‘Spite some desperate flailing.

Andy also, I hear,
Spent some time in the air
When he took a long fall
High upon Calver Wall.
And there’s also a log
On his UKC blog
Of an interesting day
Soloing E5 6a.

One fine sunny day,
Rather earlier, in May,
I hear it was Guy
Who went flying by,
with customary fervour
He tackled L’Horla at Curbar.

Then, to find something bigger,
They walked up to Higgar,
Where accounts are agreed
‘Twas again grandpa Reid
Who wiped off his smile
As he lobbed from The File.

After four falls, no less,
Poor Guy’s hands were a mess.
If you can’t jam, it’s true,
This VS is E2.

At Froggatt I’m told
Stephen Gray was involved,
While upping the ante
On Strapiombante.

Rockfax might deem
This a “good first extreme”,
But its tail has a sting,
A potential huge swing,
Which left Carol, it’s said,
Nearly kicked in the head.

But let’s now shift our gaze
West, to far Castle Naze,
Where young Caroline’s game F
or a climb called “No Name”.

Says severe in the book.
Should be well worth a look,
But the handholds were slimy,
The footholds quite shiny,
And a Wild Country Rock
Is still suffering from shock.

Later on in the year,
Back on Curbar I hear,
We’ll find Martin Stevens.
Always better than evens
The chance of a lob
When he’s on the job.

If there’s truth in the tale
His complexion was pale
After hitting the ground
When his gear proved unsound.

Bones could have been cracked,
But with humour intact,
The most sought after news
Was the size of his bruise.

Elsewhere in this year,
There have been, I fear,
A full-scale procession
Of small indiscretions.

So this must be my cue
To recall just a few.

Bob the Butcher at Baslow
Found reasons to lie low,
While Adrian at Birchen
Found the Fo’c’sle too searching,

Michael B on Trapeze
(Should have made that with ease),
And young Merv. took a fall
Off of Ash Tree Wall.

Now it’s high time, I feel,
For me to reveal
Who’s won the award
In this year of our Lord.

But before I declare
The top lobber this year,
Let’s spare a wee thought
For those leaving with nought.

There can be but one winner,
One ultimate sinner,
But surely it’s true
That honour is due
To all who took part
In this dubious art.

So friends, get off your arses,
Lift up your glasses,
And give us a cheer
For the Lobs of the Year!

And now for the awards!

Before we get to the main event, there are a few preliminary gongs to present.

First the “Duracell” award for sheer quantity of climbing. With more than 300 routes completed this year it has to go to – Andrew Hansler.

Next the “IMC Climbing Achievement” award for the climber or climbers showing the greatest tenacity in moving up through the grades. This year the Award goes jointly to John Buchan and Karen Roberts for their first E1 leads on Brutus in Dovedale, with a sporting commendation to Aaron Willis and Gavin Atkins for achieving F7c in Kalymnos.

Next the “IMC Couch Potato” award for the climber or climbers showing the greatest tenacity in moving up through the grades without ever setting foot on the rock. This one, for breaking through to E3 by simply reading the new Lundy guidebook, goes to yours truly, ably seconded by Mervyn Lamacraft.

The “Hooker Prize” for contributions to local literature goes to all our contributors to this year’s splendid IMC newsletters: Steve Culverhouse, Gunni Page, Adrian Fagg, Ian Thurgood, Carol Fowles, Caroline Goldsworthy, any others I’m sure I’ve forgotten, and, of course, the editor in chief, Guy Reid.

For their contribution to national climbing literature (the new Lundy Guidebook again) we must honour Simon Chandler, Steve Culverhouse, and Mervyn Lamacraft (with apologies for the spelling, Mervyn, when you get to read it).

The RSPCA “Kindness to Animals” award goes to Peter and Louise Krug for their generosity in allowing Reynard the Fox to share their breakfast.

Then for spectacular geographical achievements we must acknowledge the following:

  • For the highest altitude reached – the summit of Mont Blanc – Mr Eddie Webster
  • For the furthest distance travelled East – Lake Baikal, Siberia – Dr Karen Roberts.
  • For the furthest West – Arizona – Dr Simon Chandler
  • For the furthest South – Capetown – Dr Stephen Culverhouse, the Revd. Ian Thurgood, and Dame Christina Ennis.
  • And for the furthest North – Lofoten – Dr Stephen Culverhouse, Professor Carol Fowles, and Lt. Gen. Sir Stephen Twistleton-Wickham-Gray Bt.

And now the main event – the lob of the year 2008.

The 6 club members short listed for this prestigious award are:

  • For George, Dovedale – Stephen Culverhouse
  • For Strapiombante, Froggatt and Pianokrakken, Lofoten – Stephen Gray
  • For No Name, Castle Naze, Caroline Goldsworthy
  • For L’Horla, Curbar and The File, Higgar Tor – Guy Reid
  • For Marmoset, Stanage and Calver Wall, Curbar – Andrew Hansler
  • For Pale Complexion, Curbar and other minor indiscretions – Martin Stevens.
  • With such high calibre action this has been a particularly difficult year for the judges.

We have of course been guided by the very important club rule which states that any falls resulting in serious injury, or the potential for serious injury, are automatically disqualified.

This year the judges were particularly swayed by the quality of the climbs from which the lobbing took place. In fact we decided it would be appropriate to introduce a brand new SI unit of measurement that combines the number of lobs with the number of guidebook stars. This new unit has been unofficially christened the “lobstar”.

So the winner this year is the man who confined his lobbing to two of the finest three star routes on Peak Gritstone, amassing an unassailable total in just one weekend of no less than 21 “lobstars”. Yes, it’s got to be – Guy Reid!

Eating a piece of The Cake of Mortality

A small epic in Swanage

Some of you may remember Andy Hemsted, a chap I met through UKC and who took my place on The 2006 Lundy trip. He is the current Newsletter Editor for his local club – The Cave and Crag – and he has told me of an occasional column they have which goes under the title of “The Cake of Mortality”.

It is based on the tenet that “to err is human” and that in doing so one tastes said delicacy.

In a recent edition a chap reports how he set out on a well-known walk in North Wales but when the weather turned a little nasty and he decided to head for home by a shorter route he discovered that the map he had packed was for the area just south of where he actually was. Oops. He told the tale with a wry smile of embarrassment knowing that though his local knowledge and compass-using skill had got him home safely it was a timely reminder to check and double check before setting out.

This is not a place to embarrass others but somewhere an errer can admit to, and mayhap laugh at, their own error allowing all to learn from it.

Recently I “enjoyed” a slice of said cake whilst climbing with Steve Culverhouse in Swanage.
Forgetting to take a rope down with me was just the start, and I think studying the guidebook and the route description with a bit more care before I set off may be on the cards.

As Steve has written about this so eloquently I’ll let him tell the tale.

“As the weather was set to continue fair after the September IMC weekend in Swanage Guy and I decided to stay on for an extra day and on Monday it was Boulder Ruckle again, but this time the Marmolata area. We eyed up The Tool (E2) as a potential ‘warm-up’ but in the end started on The Heidelberg Creature (VS 4c) – and if you thought I was sandbagging you on Batt Crack Ian, you ain’t seen nothing yet!

After battling The Heidelberg Creature the mojo was returning a little so we decided that it was time for The Tool. The plan was for Guy to lead the 5a first pitch and me to do the 5b second pitch. I abbed down first and things started badly when Guy appeared and promptly started holding his head in his hands and making D’oh noises – No rope! A quick glance at the guidebook put the pitches as 23m and 15m so we decided we could do it on a doubled single. So Guy set off on and took a cramped belay where the Rockfax topo showed, saying ‘this belay’s horrible’. I followed and managed to contort in next to Guy and swapped the gear and we looked up at the start of the top pitch. Just above our belay spot was a nice corner with good foot ledges so we decided to move the belay up a few feet so Guy could avoid a widow’s hunch. After sorting that out I set out again up the nice corner though we were both a bit confused by the guidebook which mentioned no corners but a ‘step left to a thin crack’. Ah well, the corner looked nice and was the obvious line (and there were no thin cracks off left) so I set off assuming that we had somehow got off route onto a VS. So up the corner to a small roof I went and then stopped – the roof looked hard and so did the face off to the left. Guy had obviously been attentively belaying for at this point a voice came up. ‘Are there some pegs there?’ – There were I replied. ‘Ah, well that’s the belay for Pitch 1 then ‘ I looked around to the left again and, sure enough, a thin crack. So I set up belay Number Three under the roof and brought Guy up again. At this point my motivation levels had dropped (the face looked rather hard and anyway I’d just led 2 pitches) so the gear was handed over to Guy who proceeded to power up the sustained 5b final pitch. We finished at 5.00pm in the end and made it back to Ipswich at 9.30…

Good old Swanage eh!”

Guy (aided and abetted by Steve Culverhouse)

The Adventures of Paramo Brown and the Girdle of Chee

Finding Patum Peperium in Chee Dale

Steve Culverhouse and Guy Reid – August 2008

‘A map has come into my possession,’ the indomitable Mr Culverhouse breathed quietly to his vertically-challenged companion Paramo Brown, their conversation anonymous in the hubbub of the hostelry. He told the tale of its discovery, in a darkly mysterious gearshop, thus.

“Behind the counter the assistant had an air of a man who had sold too many Friend 6s to novice Mod leaders but still, if rumour was to be believed, he had treasures to sell. In these situations it is important to make your first impression count – walk in and check the Moon T-shirts, those oversize chalkbags or the beanies and any chance of seeing the good stuff is gone.

I walked to the counter and looked him in the eye,

‘Four metres of that ab tat please, and a rockcentric 7 – on dyneema mind.’

At this the assistant looked at me sharply before heading off to find my items and I knew I’d found the right man.

‘And will there be anything else Sir?” he asked.

‘I hear you have some ‘special’ goods for sale,” I replied.
At this he looked conspiratorially around the shop, shooed a younger staff member over to the bouldering mats and pull-up boards then beckoned me closer.

‘I may have something for the discerning, er, traditional, gentleman. I can do . . . Ronhills.”

‘No dice,” I retorted. ‘I can already walk the walk, but I need . . . directions, pitch grades, topos………..for Chee Tor.’

At this the assistant sucked in his breath, thought for a moment but then drew out, from under the counter, a brown volume.

‘The treasure of Chee Tor,’ he began, ‘and many other places beside, may be found in here, but, mark my words, not one man in a hundred will make it there through all the ordeals that he will encounter on the way, and fewer still make it back.’”

Glancing furtively around Mr Culverhouse unfolded a piece of paper, pointed to a picture of the route and its arcane description, “Here be dragons” was the only thing missing, and smiled.

It didn’t actually start quite like that but should have done.
The next morning we left the car in Miller Dale and took the track heading toward Chee Tor and its famous girdle.

“Chee Dale takes a long time to dry out and a good spell of dry weather is required . . .” After dropping down to the river bank just by the abseil bridge we certainly found this to be true for the underfoot conditions – one day, albeit the very sunny previous one which we had spent at Beeston Tor, is not enough; under the canopy of tree cover “squelch” was the order of the day.

Flanders and Swann sang in my head

Approach: Along the riverbank, under Rhubarb buttress and Cornice, over a bridge and then double back.

Under Cornice
Under Cornice (click on any image to view in Flickr)

Sounds so simple, but there is plenty to keep you entertained even before you reach the start of the route.

Proceed with care
Proceed with care

A strangely beautiful walk-in takes you into the set of ‘The Lost World’. Impressive rockfaces tower above, whilst all around there is luxuriant undergrowth in profusion; bushes, nettles and huge rhubarb leaves swallow you up whilst brambles snag cloth and skin.

In the Undergrowth
In the Undergrowth

Even once over the bridge there is still some more bushwhacking and a short downclimb on wet rock to keep the interest going.

And then we were there.

Over a sandwich decisions were made and Steve racked up ready to take pitches 1, 3 and 5, whilst I would lead 2 and 4.

Ready to go
Ready to go

Doggone Groove, the traditional start, is a 4b pitch with attitude, particularly in the day’s dampish conditions; a curse or two and the odd “ooh-er” was the sound track as Steve got us underway.
And I realised why when I followed him up to the stout belay amongst trees.

As I led out on the second pitch the rock and the route, no longer under the tree canopy, changed condition. Now the rock was clean and dry, and all about was an airiness and great views; a smile crept onto my face.

Pitches two and three keep up interest without being taxing. The wall below is just about vertical whilst above there is almost always a small roof signalling the start of the great headwall. The sense of adventure stays with you as you move steadily across the face of the rock but well above the trees,

Along the way
Along the way

Luckily for us Chee Tor was deserted because we necessarily crossed any number of routes as we meandered along the fault line. The intense quiet also added to the unique strangeness of the outing; we could hear nature as we slowly traversed across the rock face.

Pitch four is, at 5a, the supposed crux and during it sight is lost between leader and second. There are a couple of tricky moves but the whole time one is able to continually enjoy the exposure and airiness of the situations. Threads abound, as do bomber gear placements, not forgetting the numerous belay points for the routes that we were crossing.

Paramo Brown on pitch four
Paramo Brown on pitch four

From the hanging belay Steve would set out on the fifth and last pitch – passing a big corner groove and then across a fantastic big open face before going just round a corner to the final belay.
Just after he moved away from the groove I heard him ask about footholds; asking as in, ‘where the “goodness gracious” are they?’


The route had kept a little sting in its tail; one that I discovered for myself on the second when I enjoyed a moment of hanging-on-by-my-fingertips before finding somewhere to plant a toe. This surely is a 5a pitch too we agreed later.

Round the corner Steve found a glut of new and shiny stainless steel. A fine abseil/belay station. He was both happy and sad as he realised that we had reached the end of our excitement.

The final belay
The final belay

It took us under 10 minutes to walk back to our rucksacks – rucksacks that we had left some three and a half hours earlier – where we sat smiling and had a little something to eat.

The rock was not in good condition below the traverse line so more climbing at Chee Tor was not on but it was too early to head back to the tents.

A quick decision (surely anathema to the IMC) had us packing up and making ready to do some reconnaissance work. We were off to find Harpur Hill (where Steve led a great HVS despite wind and impeding rain, but that’s another story).

But even the escape was not without its fun as we decided to brave the water on the return . . .

The walk-out
The walk-out

And boy, was it cold.

On our day out we had found the Patum Peperium for a jaded climber’s palate. The girdle was just so much fun; challenging without ever being too difficult. It just has to be done as no article can do it justice.

Newsletter – April 2008

Madam’s Meanderings

So we are well and truly into 2008 and I hope you’re all keeping your
New Year’s resolutions. I only made one this year but it had several
sub-clauses. However, I’ve just referred to it and I’m surprised to
discover that I’m doing remarkably well. I hope you are too.

I can’t imagine what sort of New Year’s resolution the weather has made.
‘Get noticed more’ perhaps? If that’s the case it’s certainly been
getting noticed more recently, but let’s hope the tempestuousness soon
gives way to brighter weather. Already the days are getting lighter and
it’s great to have light until 6 or 6:30 in the evening. Although it
will soon be mess about with the clocks weekend and I don’t know bout
you but the spring forward always leaves me out of sorts for a week or
two. Though hopefully lighter mornings will mean I feel happier about
leaping pout of bed and doing some exercise before the day gets gobbled
up by other things.

Do you ever feel that your life is not your own and your time is at the
beck and call of others. During the course of today I have had eleven
meeting invites and meeting updates from just one person! 121s, team
meetings, kick off session part 1, kick off session part 2, oh and best
of all a pre-kick-off session to be held of course on 1st April.
Sometimes, what am I saying, frequently, I think that if I spent less
time in workshops and meetings I’d actually have time to get the day job
done! Though I did have the pleasurable experience recently of walking
into a 4 star hotel dressed in mountain biking gear, covered in mud and
much to the consternation of the afternoon receptionist (who’d not seen
me before) demonstrate that I was a resident and could I have a table
for dinner that evening. Well it made me smile, and dinner was very
pleasant too.

Since I wrote the above the clocks have indeed sprung forward, it’s the
1st of April, I have over slept and am feeling very out of sorts, and
even copious amounts of coffee are not helping to gee up the inner
project manager.

However it is the start of the new financial year, a new quarter, I’ve
just been paid and there is annual leave available in the ‘bank’. All
this leads to the question of where shall we go and what shall we do?
Don’t forget it is not just the committee who can organise trips and
suggest venues; anyone in the club can. So if there’s somewhere you
fancy going, just suggest it to me or the meets organiser and we’ll help
you put something together.

Lastly a call for support for the beginners’ trip on 17-18 May. As you
may or may not know this annual event is always well supported for which
I thank those leaders and assistants who give up their time. However,
can we please ensure that if your want to climb with a specific person
or group that you ensure Tonksy knows in advance of the weekend. We had
quite a few problems at the last beginners’ follow through weekend where
people were organised into groups but a large number of people wanted to
climb with other people and it all got rather messy and really difficult
for the organiser. A lot of effort does go into organising these
weekends and it is helpful if the organiser gets support and a little
forethought goes a long way to providing that support.

Right you know the rules: be careful out there, don’t get injured, don’t
disturb the Air/Sea/Mountain Rescue bods (Martin, apologies, the
newsletter should have been out earlier, entirely my fault), give
generously when you see them collecting and have lots and lots of fun.

All the best

Caro xx

P.S. Lob of the year: I made the ‘mistake’ of giving my Lob of the Year
speech as a totally off the cuff diatribe; ‘mistake’, as I was
expected to hand it in as a write-up for the newsletter! So herewith a quick
synopsis. Special mentions go to Aaron Willis who I was told came off a VS!
Practically unheard of and he must have been particularly ill for that to
have happened. To Isobel Farr who decided that to make taking out the gear
easier she need to use both hands and… well you can imagine the rest. To
Karen Roberts who had a tussle with a VS at Dovestone but the VS won. To
Andy Hansler who made many and varied attempts to get the award – early
disqualification for spraining an ankle lead to more and more attempts to be
considered for the award. To Beryl Worvell who decided to do Heather Wall as
a layback and got spat off. So I decided that this year there would be two
awards. One to Beryl for sheer audacity and the other to Andy for tenacity.
Well done both and I hope we have many more injury free lobs to write and
talk about over the coming year. I shall be attempting Heather Wall as a
layback myself this year 😉


Editor’s Erratum

Well, ‘the best laid plans’ and all that; time drifted past and suddenly
the interim edition has become a tardy standard one. But though it
arrives late it’s worth the wait and shows how much you organise amongst

Once again my thanks to all who appear here – it’s your hard work that
makes it fun.

I am very keen to hear what all of you have been up to and I know there’re
others who feel just the same so quick trip reports would be much
appreciated amongst any longer articles. Just a few paragraphs giving a
taste of your trip to inspire and excite us would be great.

I am setting the next deadline as the end of June so that we can ensure
an edition before the pens are put away for the summer months.

Don’t wait for my prompting; get reporting now.

Stay safe.


Name that Route

Two more mystery routes for you to identify.

Route 1

Route 2




This Newsletter’s articles can be seen on separate webpages by clicking the following links.

Did you know that most of the articles that have previously appeared in the IMC newsletter can be read online? Find them listed in the Articles Index. By the way, these can now be read by anyone on the internet – not just members of the IMC. So tell your friends and family.

IMC Climbing Crossword

By Guy Reid

The answers to the Christmas crossword can be seen here.

Website News

As promised in the last newsletter I’ve setup an image gallery on the
IMC website. This is linked from the left-hand menu on the homepage,
and from the photos page. Alternatively go to This allows you
all to add photos to the website. If you wish you can add some
descriptive text, and make comments about other members’ photos as well
as vote for your favorites. I hope that this will keep the photo album
fresh. A random montage of photos from the album are shown on the IMC
homepage. Click the FAQ
link on the gallery page for instructions on how to use it.

Simon – IMC Webmaster


The Committee

See the contacts page for list of the IMC committee members and a brief description of their roles.
There were a few changes in line up at our last AGM, with Louise and Peter Krug jointly taking over the role of secretary from Mervyn. Martin Hore was chosen as our Child Protection Officer, whilst Aaron Willis and Jo Southall are our youth representatives.


Diary Dates

See our Club Meets page for up-to-date details about
meetings and events that are currently planned by the Ipswich Mountaineering Club

This scheduled list is suggested as a framework for meets in the coming
months and to help get dates into your diaries; however, we are looking
for volunteers to co-ordinate some of the events and for ideas of where
people would like to go. Please contact the meets
if you are interested in helping to organise any of the
above or to make suggestions for future meets.

A quick reminder regarding attendance: Please note that anyone
attending an official Ipswich Mountaineering Club meet must be a
member of the Ipswich Mountaineering Club or some other BMC
affiliated club. A “meet” being defined as any trip advertised on
the website or newsletter or announced/advertised via the e-mail
facility (i.e.

Newsletter – December 2007

Madam’s Meanderings

I’m just coming to the end of the project I’m working on and the first thing to be
writ large on my Lessons Learnt Report will be “never trust a salesman”! I know
this is a lesson that I should have learnt at my mother’s knee but a part of being
a project manager is that you have to trust your client. Even if that client is a

It made me think about the concept of trust and where we would be without it. The
Beatles sang that “money can’t buy me love” but it can’t buy trust either. Like
love, trust, is something that, once lost, cannot be regained. When someone lets
you down, whether that be through poor belaying, infidelity or just not catching
you when you fall, the trust in that person is damaged, often terminally.

So what is this thing called trust? It is intangible, it is important and without
it we wouldn’t get through the day. Could you imagine for example walking across
the floor if you did not trust the floor to take your weight? Or not leaving the
house for lack of trust in returning safely? The Concise Oxford defines the verb
trust as believe in the reliability, truth, ability or strength of. I’m not sure
that I can truly apply any of those words to this salesman, but he does have an
ability to keep pushing to get what he wants.

However, these concepts of reliability, strength and ability are so important to
us as climbers that we take them for granted. We trust that the belayer is
watching our every move and has their hands on the rope, but Andy relates a tale
of one climbing pair he saw earlier this year where the leader, in dire straits,
looked down to see his belayer yawning and stretching his arms above his head. I
am given to understand that sharp and harsh words were exchanged! We’ve all been
caught unawares at some point or another – hands up those who can honestly say
that they belay with total concentration all the time. Yet that person is trusting
you, and trusting your judgement as you in turn trust them when it’s your turn on
the sharp end. I know I for one am always nervous when climbing with someone new
and, especially when leading with a novice belayer, tend to take my grade down a
level or two. Earlier this year I upset someone because they considered themselves
to be a more experienced belayer than I felt they were, but it comes back to the
issue of it taking time to earn trust. And, at the other end of the extreme, a
close friend of mine was killed due to trusting the ability of someone who was not
honest about a medical condition which, ultimately, caused the death of them both.
So it would appear you can trust too little and you can trust too much.

On a happier note this year has seen another IMC wedding, and I’m sure you’ll all
join me in wishing Pete and Lou the very best of happiness as they embark on the
journey of the greatest trust of all – putting your happiness in the hands of
another person. However, from what I’ve seen of them I don’t feel that there’s any
great risk involved here!

Finally, it is proposed that we market the club a little more and encourage more
new membership next year, and whilst I applaud the intake of new members it will
cause a strain on existing resources as Beginners’ trips are likely to be larger
next year than they have been this year. It will need more leaders to step forward
and take on beginners during these trips than we have had in the past and it will
mean that you may not always be able to climb with your usual climbing partner. On
the other hand it is only for a weekend and not for a lifetime and at some point
in your climbing career someone did the same for you.

I trust that we as a club will see an increased level of support to facilitate
these weekends.

Right, that’s all from me for this year. I wish you all the very best for the
festive season and the New Year. Good climbing, skiing, mountain biking –

La Prez


Editor’s Erratum

The Christmas issue is here and it’s a cracker: there’s plenty to keep you
entertained as you warm yourself with mulled wine and an open fire. My heartfelt
thanks to those who have contributed to produce such a fine issue.
[Note from Simon: And there’s more to come! Further articles will be published in
part 2 of this newsletter, due out at the end of January 2008]

It’s great to hear some new voices amongst those we know and love in this issue; I
hope this bodes well for the future of the newsletter.

The mixture of an empty in-tray in September and the request for a bumper
Christmas issue means that this is only the third Newsletter this year. Looking
back over the last few years I see that we have changed from bi-monthly to
quarterly and this present change hints at a drift toward an even longer gap
between issues.

This is not the way I would want it to go.

I think every three months means that time-sensitive articles can be seen whilst
they are still topical, but issues will still also include writing of a more
timeless nature.

I think that The Newsletter is another part of the gel that holds the club
together, and in a time when we are trying to promote the club having a vibrant
newsletter can be no bad thing.

I hope that over the coming year we will continue to see inspiring articles that
bring the individual’s quirkiness to their tales of outdoor exploits.

Merry Christmas and best wishes for a great 2008



Name that Route

Four mystery routes for you this time. Can you identify these? And for a bonus point can you identify who is in the fourth mystery route?

Route 1

Route 2

Route 3

Route 4




This months articles can be seen on separate webpages by clicking the following links.

And here some of our member’s look back at the past year …

More articles will be published in part 2 of the IMC Winter Newsletter – which will be out at the end of January 2008.
Hopefully this will include a trip report from the Walking/Scrambling/Biking/Climbing extraveganza in the Lake District on the 19th-20th January (see the meets page for details).
There will also be articles from Peter Krug, Alex Purser, Steve Culverhouse, Martin Stevens, and Andy Hansler. Order your copy now!

Did you know that most of the articles that have previously appeared in the IMC newsletter can be read online?
Find them listed in the Articles Index.
By the way, these can now be read by anyone on the internet – not just members of the IMC. So tell your friends and family.

IMC Climbing Crossword

By Guy Reid

Our editor has compiled a Christmas Climbing Crossword for you. Send your answers by email.
If you’d like to print the crossword, open this page and print from your computer in the usual way.



1. You may not see the light, but you’ll enjoy the crack. (8)
7. In Dorset a trad route has both taken the scalps of, and given fun to, members of the IMC. (5)
8. After re-laying our slabs I was able to get something done up at Burbage. (8)
9. Repeal changed the meaning of jumper on a Royal estate. (6) 10. Pie due to be cooked near Merthyr is quite tasty I’ve heard. (6)
11. She’s a rainbow on Kalymnos, but hard with it. (4)
12. In the farthest remotest lands there is a taste of millstone grit. (7)
15. Teaser perhaps – this island is a feast of limestone fun. (6)
17. Bride-to-be with a speech impediment? Sounds a like a fairy tale to me. (4)
18. Though often felt to be troublesome, a young lad coming back in the Ogwen Valley is not too, too hard. (3)
19. Dyson I rebuilt is one of Puttrell’s. (6)
21. Perhaps just what you’ll need after a Tremadog route known to be vegetated. (3)
23. See 30 Across
24. Avant-garde ambient androgyne famed for his fruit salts goes back to being solo. (3)
26. See 31 Across
29. See 30 Across
30, 23 and 29 across. Mick and Keef call for help to get going on something hard down in Pembroke. (5,2,2)
31 and 26 Across. Margrave of the Marshes, the limestone DJ. (4,4)


1. Over-indulgence in pleasure? Sounds like a sin, but don’t feel guilty about having so much fun near Matlock. (10)
2. He conjures up a little magic opposite Eric’s. (6)
3. Puss seen in a tizzy ends up in a state of high anxiety. (8)
4. Guy’s been climbing on Peak Limestone; talks about a great route there. (5)
5. Broken boom is part of the Whillans myth – something typical of the man. (10)
6. Say goodbye up at Stanage End. (11)
12. And the Romans phone home. (2)
13. Neptune holds the answer to the Western peapod question. (7)
14. A state of happiness? Certainly is when you top out. (7)
16. The crack at the end of the day. (6)
20. A favourite of the marquis. (2)
22. Muddy had his working; will you need yours above Llanddulas? (4)
25. One German route at Crowden Great Quarry. (3)
27. More than just one route above HVS. (2)
28. A note after some needlework. (2)


From The Secretary

There are currently 132 members including 36 new and 18 under-18 members. 93% of members have chosen to receive the newsletter electronically, and 95% of
members have their details listed on the web contact list. 37 (out of 129) of last year’s members did not renew this year.

The YHA group membership has been renewed until Sept 2008 and the club’s membership card is held by the secretary.
The club’s YHA membership number is 7653317, which can be used by all IMC members when making bookings.

Please use email to contact the secretary, at


Website News

We are currently trying out a new website service that was requested by some of our members at the AGM.
The IMC forum is open to all members of the IMC.
The posts there can only be read by members of the IMC, since access to it requires
the website username (‘imc’) and password (which I can’t tell you here!).

To use the forum click the link on the IMC webpage menu, or go straight to
Once there find the ‘register’ link in the top right hand corner, register, and then you can immediately start using the forums. There are currently two forums:
‘The Soapbox’ and ‘Committee Matters’. The Soapbox is open to any IMC member. You can put anything you want in there. Later you may create (or suggest that I create)
more specific forums to discuss particular topics (e.g., training techniques), but for now let’s just use this Soapbox. The ‘Committee Matters’ forum can only be read
and modified by IMC members who are members of a usergroup called ‘The Committee’, and these are – surprise surprise – your committee.
Finally, I’m not a great user of online forums, so this is all a bit new to me. If there’s anything you think needs to be added, removed or changed then please tell me.
I need your advice on this.

The forum currently has 20 registered users (out of 132 members), who have posted 54 articles/comments. The articles so far include:
Why use a forum when we could use email to discuss things?
, Why are some people frightened by “traditional” VD,
and the committee members are discussing the planning of Beginner’s meets.

Please try out the forum and send me email if you can suggest any way that it can be improved.

Over the Christmas break I plan to setup an image gallery on the IMC website. This will allow you all to add photos to the website. If you wish
you can add some descriptive text, and make comments about other members’ photos as well as vote for your favorites. I hope that this will keep the
photo album fresh and dynamic. Stay tuned …

Simon – IMC Webmeister


The Committee

See the contacts page for list of the IMC committee members and a brief description of their roles.
There were a few changes in line up at our last AGM, with Louise and Peter Krug jointly taking over the role of secretary from Mervyn. Martin Hore was chosen as our Child Protection Officer, whilst Aaron Willis and Jo Southall are our youth representatives.


Diary Dates

See our Club Meets page for up-to-date details about
meetings and events that are currently planned by the Ipswich Mountaineering Club

This scheduled list is suggested as a framework for meets in the coming
months and to help get dates into your diaries; however, we are looking
for volunteers to co-ordinate some of the events and for ideas of where
people would like to go. Please contact the meets coordinator if you are interested in helping to organise any of the above or to make suggestions for future meets.

A quick reminder regarding attendance: Please note that anyone
attending an official Ipswich Mountaineering Club meet must be a
member of the Ipswich Mountaineering Club or some other BMC
affiliated club. A “meet” being defined as any trip advertised on
the website or newsletter or announced/advertised via the e-mail
facility (i.e.

Newsletter – October 2007

Madam’s Meanderings

Another prod and a poke of the elbow, a pursing of lips and then
finally ….

The magic words ….

“Yes, OK you can climb on it”.

Rappers had, at long last, given me the all clear to climb
but, as luck would have it, one disaster followed another and
I didn’t get out on the rock until the last Bank Holiday
in May. For those of you who haven’t heard, it was not
my most momentous and organised trip. I forgot any number of
things, including ropes, walking boots and head torch!
Fortunately someone had a spare rope and so the money saved by
not buying new ropes went on a new full suspension mountain
bike that was a much needed item and had been on my shopping
list for some time. Mr Hams would like a new Gear Fondling
award at the Christmas Curry as he does not think anyone will
beat his record. ☺

The recent Beginners’ trip saw an excellent turnout of
both leaders and newcomers and I would like, once again, to
express my personal thanks to all those people who gave their
time to show newcomers the ropes (pun decidedly intended!) The
weather played its part and there was a lovely atmosphere all
weekend. Judging by the emails I received afterwards everyone
had a good time. Thanks must go to Dave Tonks for getting the
whole thing together although sadly, at the last minute, he
could not join us.

The Beginners’ Multi-pitch weekend was also well
attended and many thanks to those who turned up and organised
the teams on the Saturday morning. Apologies for not managing
to turn up myself but I got caught by some nasty bug that laid
me low for a week. A good day was had on the Saturday and the
rain came in as most teams were getting off the crag. Sunday
was a slightly different matter and some folks turned up at
Idwal Slabs to discover that a shower had been installed and
the slabs were awash with running water. Some souls had
arrived earlier and were of course mid-climb and had the full
Welsh multi-pitch experience. J I am given to understand that
the services of Mountain Rescue were not required this time
but a certain gentleman did give cause for concern as he had
not returned to the campsite by 10pm. However, he was enjoying
a well-earned curry in town and not bacon and beans as per
last year.

Finally, just a quick note about some up and coming

21-22 July — A relaxed climbing trip to Gower (Swansea). Contact Simon Chandler
to go on this trip.

2-5 August — Yorkshire Grit — climbing in
God’s Own Country. (Shush – don’t tell the
Sheffield Mafia) — I’m the contact for this trip.

25-27 August — Bank Holiday sees us off down to Devon
and Fraser Hale is your contact for this event.

And of course, don’t forget to commence squealing on
those lobs so that we can start compiling a list for Lob of
the Year but don’t forget injuries exclude contenders.

Climb well but safely

All the best

La Presidente


Editor’s Erratum

The deadline comes; the deadline goes; and I wait. And I am rewarded – an article. That makes two. I wait again but, unlike buses, another article does not come along. Three is more fun, I’ve heard, so I join in and here we are – the July issue.

Lots has happened since I last wrote: Easter; two Bank Holidays in May; two Beginners’ weekends so I had rather hoped for more but mayhap the next issue will be the big one. I had wondered about the slight possibility that the unusual weather would mean that tales would be written because people couldn’t get outside though, if anything, it was more likely that I would hear how you entertain yourselves outdoors despite the rain, thunder and lightning. Again, perhaps next time.

I would appreciate some feedback about the newsletter; constructive criticism, ideas, in fact any thoughts at all. I have one: how do you feel about moving the newsletter to the public part of the website, rather than the members only bit? Is there a privacy concern? Would we have to “vet” the articles thoroughly to avoid possibility of legal problems? Would I get more articles? Or fewer? Is the Newsletter a valued part of The IMC or an anachronism? Are trip reports the way to keep members informed of what had gone on and what could be expected from future trips. This is something I intend to bring up at the AGM so please let me know how you feel.

The deadline for the next issue is midnight Sunday September 30th

e-mail your contributions to: or post to:

Guy Reid, Falconhurst, 27, Bath Road, Felixstowe, Suffolk IP11 7JN.


Name that Route

Three mystery routes for you in this edition. Can you identify these? If you need it, here’s a clue to the three problems …

Route 1

Route 2

Route 3



This months articles can be seen on separate webpages by clicking the following links.
For other articles see the articles index.

Diary Dates

See our Club Meets page for up-to-date details.

This scheduled list is suggested as a framework for meets in the coming months and
to help get dates into your diaries; however, we are looking for volunteers to
co-ordinate some of the events and for ideas of where people would like to go.
Please contact the meets coordinator
if you are interested in helping to organise any of the above or to make
suggestions for future meets.

A quick reminder regarding attendance: Please note that anyone attending an
official Ipswich Mountaineering Club meet must be a member of the Ipswich
Mountaineering Club or some other BMC affiliated club. A “meet” being defined as
any trip advertised on the website or newsletter or announced/advertised via the
e-mail facility (i.e.